A decent moderate, Washboard is a nice introduction to Moore's Wall for the first-time visitor.
P1 -- Starting at the end of the approach trail, marked by a large dead tree, move up a big crack in a right-facing corner to a roof. Move right under the roof, then up and left of a small arete. Continue with nice face climbing to finish at a ledge with a small pine tree. 5.6, 100' P2 -- Continue up on easy ground to the top of the cliff. 5.0, 100'
NOTE: The Selected Climbs guidebook lists Washboard as a one-pitch route, but safe descent options for doing only the first pitch listed above are limited, so topping out is the best alternative.
Location
Starts where the approach trail reaches the cliff. Descent options include: -- after topping out, walk around to climber's right to the Sentinel Buttress and use the rap station there. -- after topping out, walk around to climber's left and find a descent gulley between the main wall and the Amphitheatre. -- from P1, use alleged 4th class descent as described in the guidebook; roping up for this descent is highly recommended as fall consequences would be deadly.
Protection
A good range of gear, some large pieces can help protect the starting moves. Build a gear anchor at the top.
The quick 4th class descent is like climbing down a ladder, but with serious consequences if you blow it. Most locals do this, but it can be very intense for people just breaking into 5.6. You can do a 2nd pitch and then walk off or rap with 2 ropes from a tree. Honestly, if you are worried, its faster to just tie-in and lead or simul the downclimb with a few pieces of gear than to continue upwards.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jan 29, 2009
Condescending comments notwithstanding, I stand by my recommendation against using the so-called 4th class descent. My partner and I are 5.10 and 5.9 leaders, respectively (not exactly "just breaking into 5.6"), and neither of us had any desire to roll the dice on this descent.
Yeah I wasn't implying that its only scary for noob climbers. I roped up for that downclimb the 1st few times. My main point I guess is that it's pretty easy to protect the downclimb with gear. Just like leading really, but backwards. The climb was established when a 2 bolt anchor half way up a 2-pitch route with good gear anchors would have been blasphemy, and some would still argue that same point today. That being said, I would not complain one bit about an anchor.
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