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Moore's Wall
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Vascular Disaster 

5.11c PG13

   

FA: Tim Fisher, Jeff Overby - 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 622 page views

Submitted By: jpg on Jul 6, 2007


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Description 

This is a pretty classic Moore's Wall route. The crux may be just getting past the 12- boulder problem start, don't blow it here. So, fire off the start, get up about 15 feet, place first good pro, bomber gear, long sling. More mellow climbing brings you to a roof crux with tricky gear placements, good gear, just tricky to see your placements. Pull the roof and then continue to anchors on a pumpy jug haul with some good gear of #1/#2 size camalots. NC anchor of a couple of wires (cannot recall if there are hexes or of the wires are simply through some rock...but it's solid)


Location 

Located at the North End of Moore's Wall.


Protection 

Trad gear, mostly small cams. .5 camalot to a 2 camalot range.



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By dcohn
Nov 16, 2007

Strange rating. An 11c with a 12a start.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 3, 2008

I think the rating is a bit of comprimise. The start is 12, but the rest is probably no harder than 11a/b. So they call it 11c...

By Ben Sachs
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.11c

PG13 seems harsh for this route. There is bomber gear for every section. More straight-forward than a lot of routes at Moores. The start is probably 11+/12a but you are right off the ground.

By erik danielson
Apr 29, 2009

ill never understand how a route can "start" at 12/11+ and end up with a 11- grade.

By Ben Sachs
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c

its called sandbagging dude, no shortage at Moores. Pretty reasonable route for an 11c climber to try though. pull the boulder problem and you are cruising 5.11. oh yeah and supposedly a hold broke out of that start at some point, making it harder.

By Chandler Van Schaack
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c

There is currently a cheater block at the base, which makes the boulder problem definitely more like 11+, even for the shorter folks

By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c

Chandler, there's no way the start is 11+ for the truly short. V3 is perhaps the proper grade for the start. A pad would be nice, actually.