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Zeus 

5.13b

   

FA: Harrison Decker
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 461 page views

Submitted By: jpg on Jul 6, 2007


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Seth on Zeus.

Photo by David Hill.



Description 

Incredible steep route in an amazing setting. Difficult crux at 3rd bolt, tough redpoint crux at fixed pin (5th piece on route). Tough technical face to finish. Great exposure.


Location 

This route is located in the Hanging Garden area of Moore's Wall.


Protection 

NC sport route. 6 bolts, 1 pin. Two bolt anchor.



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By Christopher Barlow
Sep 26, 2008
CONDITION REPORT 

As of Sept. '08, there are fixed draws on all but one bolt of Zeus. Other than the crux draw, which has a screw-link connecting it to the bolt, the draws appear to be disintegrating remnants of previous projecting instead of fixed gear installed for convenience. To me, it seems prudent to install high quality, camouflaged wire or chain draws on such a classic route. The other option, in keeping with Moore's tradition ethic, would be to clean the draws and let each suitor hang his or her own. The route would be somewhat frustrating to clean but not that bad with tramming into the anchor bolt on the ledge. Other ideas or input?