Charlie Hussey belaying Bruce Meneghin on an early...
Description
The term "classic" was made for routes like Zoo View. The Select Climbs guide calls this "possibly the best 5.7 in North Carolina;" in fact, it may very well be the best for the grade in the southeast. The wild exposure and the juggy roof make for an experience on lead that you won't soon forget. A trip to Moore's just to do this one superlative climb would not be a wasted one.
P1 -- Starting at the base of Sentinel Buttress, climb the first pitch of that route or any of the variations to get to the Crow's Nest ledge. 5.5, 80' P2 -- From the left end of the Crow's Nest, make a tenuous and exposed traverse left, clipping a bolt; continue left to the base of a crack system (be sure to adequately protect the traverse for your second). Climb the crack up to an alcove/rest stance below an imposing roof; pull the roof on fantastic holds, then continue up a steep section to easier ground, topping out in the trees. Enjoy the view! 5.7+, 140'
Location
Shares the start with Sentinel Buttress. Scramble climber's right to the bolted rap station at the top of that climb and make two raps to the ground.
Protection
Take a full range of cams and passive pro; small pieces are useful to protect the traverse. Bring plenty of slings, including double-lengths, to avoid rope drag. Double ropes are a plus. Build a gear anchor and/or sling trees.
This is a local classic. Awesome exposure with a pretty large roof for a 5.7 route. It is located on the right side of Circus Wall. Good gear, fun route. There is a rap station to the right of the top of the route.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 4, 2007
Wow! What a great ride! This route is every bit as good as everyone says it is. The roof is loads of fun, but the really heady part of Zoo View for me was the thin traverse moves at the start of the money pitch. Highly recommended!
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