Access Issues: Check for Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
Sections of Moore's Wall are subject to closure for nesting peregrine falcons. This is set seasonally; the 2007 closure runs from 1/1/07 to 8/31/07, or until further notice. For more details, check the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site.
Sauratown and (faintly) Pilot Mountain can be seen...
Description
Located just a short drive from Winston-Salem, Moore's Wall is the premier climbing destination of piedmont North Carolina. With its beautiful quartzite rock and juggy overhanging lines, Moore's more than holds its own with other great NC areas like Looking Glass. Featuring excellent single- and multi-pitch climbing on north-facing cliffs, it's a cool choice for summer climbing.
Moore's Wall is the home of some of the earliest climbing in North Carolina; its first recorded ascent went up in 1959. Carolina pioneers like George DeWolfe put up numerous first ascents through the 1960s. The 70s saw development at a higher level as climbing gear improved; Bob Rotert and others established routes like Air Raid and Wild Kingdom, among the hardest routes in the state at the time. Tom Howard was another prolific FA artist, with routes like the classic Zoo View to his credit. And climbers owe a debt of gratitude to local legend Tim Fisher, not only for his numerous first ascents, but his efforts at maintaining climber access to the cliff.
Like most NC destinations, Moore's is primarily a trad area. One distinguishing feature of climbing here is the adventurous nature of the descents; don't look for convenient bolted rap stations at the topouts of most routes. A typical rap station consists of fixed pro, slung trees or chocks, or a combination of these. And just finding the rap stations can be a real easter egg hunt, involving scrambling and downclimbing. Be prepared!
As part of Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall is subject to park regulations, including climber registration (free). Camping is available in the park. There is also a campground in close proximity to the climber parking lot on Moore's Spring Road (bring earplugs).
Getting There
From Winston-Salem, take US 52 north for about 13 miles to exit 122 (Moore-RJR Drive). Follow this road east for about four miles to NC 66 and turn left (north). Continue on 66 for almost seven miles to Moore's Spring Road (SR 1001). Turn right on Moore's Spring and continue a short distance to another right turn on Mickey Road. Follow this almost a mile to Charlie Young Road and turn right. After a short distance, you'll come to a parking lot and trailhead kiosk for the Tory's Den trail. Stop here and do the required climber registration, or register at the climber parking lot kiosk (see below).
After registering, take Tory's Den Road to the right to a Y intersection with Tomahawk Road as the right fork and an unidentified road for the left fork. At this point, there are several options for parking: take Tomahawk Road for about a half mile to an obvious parking area; take the left fork (if you have a jeep or other high-clearance vehicle) to a parking area near a park boundary gate; or (best option) take advantage of a new climber parking area recently installed by Hanging Rock State Park.
The new climbers' parking lot can be reached by continuing up Charlie Young Road past the registration kiosk, then take a dirt road off to the right (Hooker Farm Road) for less than a half mile; turn right at the handy brown "Climbers Access" sign onto another dirt road and continue a short distance to the gravel parking lot. This new lot has the advantage of not requiring a high-clearance vehicle. It also has a water pump and a registration kiosk.
The approach from the climber parking lot is fairly aerobic, gaining about 500' of elevation in a 20-minute hike. Follow the trail past the kiosk to where it reaches the gravel power line road; turn left on this road and hike up to a rock cairn on the right where you'll rejoin the trail. Continue up, ignoring spur trails to the right, until you reach the crag at the base of Washboard. Turn left to go to the Amphitheatre; to the right is the Sentinel Buttress.
Access Issues
Sections of Moore's Wall are subject to closure for nesting peregrine falcons. This is set seasonally; the 2008 closure runs from 1/1/08 to 8/31/08, or until further notice. For more details, check the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site.
This remains the best pitch I've ever climbed anywhere. It has an amazing variety of movement, unbeatable position, and plenty of spice. Follow the splitter looking crack to a funky move and a stance. Blast up the obtuse arete feature past some bolts to another stance below the slab. Plug some bogus gear and commit to the 5.11R slab moves, gaining a curiously placed bolt after the buisness. Clip a 2-pin anchor as pro and continue past it to a ...[more]
Climbers visiting Moore’s Wall can now enjoy a nice parking lot that was recently installed by Hanging Rock State Park. The parking lot was designed specifically for climbers. The parking lot can accomodate 15-20 cars, so take care not to overwhelm its capacity and carpool from Torys Den if needed. In the future, the State Park plans on installing an information kiosk, a pit toilet and make final upgrades to the trail that connects the parking area to the existing trails of Moore’s Wall.
Directions: From Winston Salem take Hwy 52N to exit 122 (Moore - RJR Dr). Head east until you hit Rt 66 and take a left. Follow Rt 66 to Moore’s Spring Rd and take a right. A half a mile later you’ll take a right onto Mickey Rd, then a right onto Charlie Young Rd. Go 3/4 mile (passing the parking area for Torys Den), and take a right onto a dirt road called Hooker Farm Rd. Follow this for 1/2 mile or less and take the first right (no name or sign) Parking is found a short distance beyond the right turn. The parking area is gravel and is on level ground.
For organizational purposes, Moore's Wall should be broken up into separate areas on this website (ie. Amphitheater, Circus Wall, etc.) like a guidebook would have routes listed.
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