A super testpiece of "brow" climbing. The crux is down low pulling a move off the "spoon" hold but things stay exciting all the way to the top as each hard moves comes just before clipping the next bolt.
Beautiful moves but may need a bit of brushing off before a send can take place since its rarely climbed and the water streak may be a little dirty.
Location
Park as for the Nose. Down and right from the Nose. Immediately right of the Psych Delusions/Acid Test corner is a black water streak with bolts.
By Bob Rotert From: Broomfield, Co Sep 22, 2009 rating: 5.12
Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here. I'm not so sure about the 12+ rating given here in the description. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with him when he did the first free ascent around 1990 or so. He had placed all the bolts & been working on freeing it previously. I did the second free lead, belayed by him, on this right after his ascent. It would be nice to think it was 12+, consensus will tell. From what I remember it didn't seem quite as hard as Electric Kool Aid. But that could be the pro issues that factor in on Kool Aid I think Whitney was calling it 12b at the time. Which probably was a bit of a sandbag. Solid 12 for sure and super good climbing. Climbing at the Glass takes some time to get dialed in and this would be a hard onsite. A great legacy route put in by a Looking Glass Master!! Maybe he can chime on some of his thoughts & the history of this route.
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