Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!
Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here.
Location
North Face of Looking Glass Rock; starts left of Waste Not Want Not.
Protection
Single set of cams, extra .5- #1. Nuts. Twin ropes useful. Beaks and Bugaboos for the nailing. A two bolt anchor is fixed at all belays.
I decided to aid the corner on my clean gear before I started nailing, and got to the anchors without having to pull up the hammer. This was in about 1994. Some fixed heads were involved near the top, but otherwise I was able to get up it with my less-than-state-of-the-art rack of that era. So folks with consideration for the resource might hold off on the bashing before following the exhortation to start nailing right off the ledge. It's still the only place I've ever got to stand on a 0 RP...how cool is that?
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