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Sun Wall
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The 
Le Pump 
Odyssey, The 
Predator 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 

Predator 

5.12+

   

FA: Whitney Huerman
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 615 page views

Submitted By: chummer on May 18, 2008


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Description 

A super testpiece of "brow" climbing. The crux is down low pulling a move off the "spoon" hold but things stay exciting all the way to the top as each hard moves comes just before clipping the next bolt.

Beautiful moves but may need a bit of brushing off before a send can take place since its rarely climbed and the water streak may be a little dirty.


Location 

Park as for the Nose. Down and right from the Nose. Immediately right of the Psych Delusions/Acid Test corner is a black water streak with bolts.


Protection 

Bolts and maybe a couple of tcu's



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By Bob Rotert
From: Broomfield, Co
Sep 22, 2009
rating: 5.12

Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with Whitney when he did the first free ascent, red point, around 1990 or so. He had placed all the bolts & been working on freeing it previously. I did the second free lead, belayed by him, on this right after his ascent. It would be nice to think it was 12+, consensus will tell. From what I remember it didn't seem quite as hard as Electric Kool Aid. But that could be the pro issues that factor in on Kool Aid. I think Whitney was calling it 12b or so at the time. Which probably was a bit of a sandbag. Solid 12 for sure and super good climbing. Climbing at the Glass takes some time to get dialed in and this would be a hard onsite. A great legacy route put in by a Looking Glass Master!! Maybe he will chime in on some of his thoughts & the history of this route.