By Bob Rotert From: Broomfield, Co Sep 22, 2009 rating: 5.12
| Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with Whitney when he did the first free ascent, red point, around 1990 or so. He had placed all the bolts & been working on freeing it previously. I did the second free lead, belayed by him, on this right after his ascent. It would be nice to think it was 12+, consensus will tell. From what I remember it didn't seem quite as hard as Electric Kool Aid. But that could be the pro issues that factor in on Kool Aid. I think Whitney was calling it 12b or so at the time. Which probably was a bit of a sandbag. Solid 12 for sure and super good climbing. Climbing at the Glass takes some time to get dialed in and this would be a hard onsite. A great legacy route put in by a Looking Glass Master!! Maybe he will chime in on some of his thoughts & the history of this route. |