By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida Mar 14, 2008
This climb features a crux right off the deck for the first 20 ft. The landing is bad. At this point it takes a bomber stopper (about a 10-12 BD) and is pretty casual to the ledge. It's worth doing but must have your lead head on.
There is also a 00 C3 placement that will hold a fall if you place it well. Beware that if it walks at all as you move up through the crux it can lose it's purchase.
By Joseph Brown From: UpState, SC Aug 31, 2009 rating: 5.9 PG13
This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Left Up".
The tree mentioned in the beta is adequate for rappelling, but why stress the tree when bolts are in easy reach?
To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.
I'll usually lower after the first 30 feet until I'm ready to clean up and move on - anything above that is just a monkey walk up the wall.
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