Jeff on the 1st pitch of Peregrine...photo by Mike...
Description
Pitch 1: Climb eyebrows for about 75 feet to a nice ledge (you will be almost even with the Pitch 1 anchors on Sundial which will be to your right); gear anchor. Pitch 2: (crux) Climb past the rap bolts (out right) and up over the dike. You will want to search for another gear belay once you are up and right of the anchors on the start of pitch 3 of The Nose. Pitch 3: Climb up to the right edge of the parking lot and either use the rap anchors or build a belay out right. Pitch 4: Work your way up and slightly left to the anchors at the top of The Nose. Three double rope rappels get you to the ground.
Location
Peregrine is a slightly harder direct line in between The Nose and Sundial Crack. The route starts about 50ish feet right of The Nose. Look for the worn patches of granite that will indicate the start.
Protection
Standard NC rack with plenty of small stuff. Aliens work great, tri-cams are good. Long runners, two ropes.
By jeffinatlanta From: Atlanta, Ga. Aug 23, 2007 rating: 5.9- PG13
Ah,yes, Peregrine. Many years ago one of my old climbing partners, being a poor student, decided to fashion his own "nuts and hexes" from water pipe fittings and wooden blocks. On one our trips to the Glass, we approached the Nose area and all the guide groups were hogging the first pitches of the Nose and Sundial. My partner was perrturbed, so he just roped up and started off on Peregrine. He led the first pitch and set the "belay". When I seconded my way to the ledge, lo and behold, the belay consisted of...PIPE FITTINGS!!! I angrily told him he'd better use cams at the next belay or I wouldn't climb a single pitch the rest of the trip.
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