On one of my first trips to Looking Glass sans guide book and inexperienced with runout slab climbing, I ran into a local who recommended this new route as a good 5.9. It was the perfect sandbag and quite memorable. Begin about 50 yards to the right of Sundial Crack. The first 50-60 feet is a sea of unprotectable eyebrows (~5.8) ending on a ledge. I would recommend belaying here but didn't the first time I climbed it resulting in some serious rope drag. Pull over an easy, well protected bulge above the ledge. Veer to the right and follow the path of least resistance to a crack which takes good gear. From the crack, head back slightly left and up towards the anchors. As I recall the last 20 feet is pretty hairy unprotected climbing that left me feeling nauseous. I went for it and to my relief found an unusual "thank god" hold just below the anchors that wasn't visible from below. If you are not a well seasoned Looking Glass slabmaster, I would not recommend this as a first 5.9...or even a second or third for that matter! Addendum: Per the guide book the route continues on for another 3 pitches: P2: 5.9+, 150 ft with a bolted anchor P3: 5.7, 150 ft also bolted anchor P4: 5.5, 165 ft; descend as for the nose
Location
The route begins about 50 yards to the right of Sundial. The start was rather inobvious and the only real landmarks that I recall are the anchors at the top of the route.
Protection
Not much. Bolted Anchors on pitches 1-3. Rap the nose route. Bring an extra pair of shorts.
We inadvertently got on this on my first trip to Looking Glass. It became apparhent that I was in over my head when I looked below at the two crappy placements and 30' of runout down to the last piece. Another 30' and one 00 TCU placement found me at the anchors of P1 - shaken. I had never climbied slab or granite. This is all to say that P1 is run out!
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