Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
South Side
Show routes:
Select route...
Bloody Crack 
Dinkus Dog 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
Good Intentions 
Left Up 
Lichen or Not 
Rat's Ass 
Right Up 
Second Coming 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Unfinished Concerto 
Zodiac 

Rat's Ass 

5.8+

   

FA: Stan Wallace, John Ferguson, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins - 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 1,652 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 31, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Pat Price coming up Rat's Ass. Circa '97.


Description 

A challenging climb with a thin crack in a stemming corner. Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go as long as you have a 60-meter rope.

P1 - Starting on low-angle slab, scramble up to a crack and continue through a right-facing corner with a fingertip-sized crack. Belay at a rounded ledge with good gear in the widening crack. 5.8, 120'
P2 - Continue up the crack on easier ground, moving up and right until the corner ends and find a good spot to belay (or continue up and right to the anchors). 5.5, 170'
P3 - Climb up and right on good friction using cracks and eyebrows for pro until you get to the new upper rap anchors for Gemini Crack. 5.5, 60'


Location 

Starts just left of Second Coming. Rap from upper Gemini ring anchors to the Sentry Box Ledge, then a second rap to the ground.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and cams. No fixed gear.



Photos of Rat's Ass Slideshow Add Photo
At the belay getting ready to start pitch 2

At the belay getting ready to start pitch 2

About half way up pitch 2 of rat's ass

About half way up pitch 2 of rat's ass


Comments on Rat's Ass Add Comment
Show which comments
By Danny Inman
From: Westminster
Apr 1, 2007

This route is a classic, tips and stemming with rests when you need em.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Apr 1, 2007

Great route and a heady P1 lead by Danny, very thin fingertips in places. P2 is easier climbing but still a lot of fun on lead. A must do!

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 2, 2007

This is one of the best 5.8's on the South Face. The first pitch is a right leading inside corner. It appears blank from the deck. However, as said, the finger locks are sweet 120ft (5.8+). I like to climb up 30 feet and set up the belay at the bottom of the crack. Both this climb and 2nd coming have a low angle slab that pushes the belay out from the face. This creates a outward pull that can lead to a zipper of your gear. make sure you use a directional on these climbs. The 2nd pitch is long 180 Ft (5.5).

By Devin Armour
From: Asheville, NC
May 14, 2008
rating: 5.8

Good route on a busy wall. Hit it after a rainy night but it was dry by 10. Pulling over the bulge on the second pitch was a high point.