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Looking Glass Rock
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Bloody Crack 
Cornflake Crack 
Dinkus Dog 
Dum Dee Dum Dum 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
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Good Intentions 
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Sensemilia Sunset 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Sperm, The 
Sundial Crack 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 
Unfinished Concerto 
Womb, The 
Zodiac 

Zodiac 

5.8+ R

   

FA: Buddy Price, Doc Bayne, 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 200 feet
Views: 423 page views

Submitted By: jeffinatlanta on Jan 8, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Nomad near the top of Zodiac. He made some funny n...


Description 

This lesser climbed route at the South Face deserves mention, not only because the FA party included the late, great Doc Bayne, But it also packs quite a punch in the first 40 ft. or so with a long, scary runout on 5.8+.


Location 

Climb up to Sentry Box Ledge, then start a few feet to the right of Gemini Crack on a fairly steep slab. Climb straight up the slab to a point where where you can finally get something in, then wander to the top on somewhat easier ground.


Protection 

I gave this route an R because of the first 40ft., but the protection gets a little better after that first pro placement. Take some smaller stuff.



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By Danny Inman
From: Westminster
Apr 1, 2007

This is a great climb that has a bit of everything. I agree the first 40 feet or so are spicey 5.8. There is solid gear right after the crux.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.8+ PG13

Hats off to Danny for a great lead! The starting section will definitely get your blood pumping.