Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.
This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.
Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.
P1: 5.5 80' Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.
P2. 5.8 100' At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options.
P3: 5.7 120' If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch.
P4: 5.6 150' Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.
Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the "parking lot"-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.
Protection
(stolen from the description of The Nose): "Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes."
The first pitch takes larger gear than you'd think. I used a yellow #2 Camalot. The party before us used a blue #3.
I was glad to have multiples of .3-.75 camalot C4's, C3's, & several TCU's. The gear in the goofy belay picture is pretty typical of what's needed through the whole climb (.5 C4, .4 C4, yellow TCU, 000 C3, 0C3).
By jeffinatlanta From: Atlanta, Ga. Jan 6, 2007 rating: 5.8 PG13
Whatever the first pitch is rated in the book, it's 5.7 in my little world of ratings. I think the crack pitch (3rd) is actually easier.
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida May 2, 2007
I just climbed this again last weekend. I really think this is every bit as good as the nose. The exposure is better. One note of beta, the wind hits this climb directly, it can really blow. Make sure in the spring and fall you dress right. I think the 2nd pitch is solid 5.8.
I'd suggest taking a #3 camalot to protect the crux mantel move at the top of the 1st pitch. I found protection on P1 to be sparse after the first 20 feet.
I liked this much better than "The Nose", and I thought it was easier and significantly better protected (with the possible exception of the first pitch).
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