This is the obvious left-to-right-angling crack on the slabby left end of the North Face. A cross between classic Looking Glass eyebrow-wandering and the more strenuous crack climbs to the right.
Begin by climbing up to, and then through, the fallopian chimney that marks the start. Thinking that this squeezer is 5.9 will only get you in trouble elsewhere. 5.8, 80'.
P2: 80 feet of right-leaning crack ends at a pair of bolts. This and the first pitch are easily combined; 5.9.
P3: Inobvious moves in the vicinity of a short vertical crack (5.9+) lead to easier ground up and left. Belay from bolts. 100'
P4: Standard 'Fields of Lichen Growing Wild'; eyebrow version. 5.7, 100'.
Protection
The usual stuff will suffice. Bring walkoff shoes.
By Danny Inman From: Westminster Apr 23, 2007 rating: 5.9
P1 and P2 are straight forward. I ended up doing P3 and P4 as one long pitch which worked out well. Judging from the lichen on P3 and P4 these pitched are seldom done, but are worth while.
If you haven't done the top out pitch, its great climbing. From the double bolt belay move up and right through the initial flared crack section. Once through the crack section, move left and then generally straight up to a fixed stainless nut anchor compliments of Nathan Brown(he also scrubbed the heck out of this pitch). A 70m rope will easily get you back down on three raps.
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