Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Looking Glass Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
Bloody Crack 
Cornflake Crack 
Dinkus Dog 
Dum Dee Dum Dum 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
Glass Menagerie, The 
Good Intentions 
Hyperbola 
Le Pump 
Left Up 
Lichen or Not 
Nose, The 
Peregrine 
Predator 
Rat's Ass 
Right Up 
Seal, The 
Second Coming 
Sensemilia Sunset 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Sperm, The 
Sundial Crack 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 
Unfinished Concerto 
Womb, The 
Zodiac 

The Nose 

5.8

   

FA: Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts, Bob Gillespie - 1966
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Views: 1,640 page views

Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Mark Willey moving past first crux.


Description 

Pitch 1: Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge. 5.5, 90'

Pitch 2: Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance. 5.8, 100'

Pitch 3: From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on. 5.8, 100'

Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

This route was so much fun. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.


Location 

From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.


Protection 

Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.



Add Photo Photos of The Nose
C. Chaney beginning the rappel from the top of the Nose.

C. Chaney beginning the rappel from the top of the...

Dave Pearson starting the crux

Dave Pearson starting the crux

Dave seconding 3rd pitch of the nose

Dave seconding 3rd pitch of the nose

Dave Pearson topping out on the 4th pitch of the nose. ca 9/17/05

Dave Pearson topping out on the 4th pitch of the n...

Gearing up for the fourth and final pitch.  Funny how much easier it is to see the water streak in the photo than it was at the time.  Photo by Huong.

Gearing up for the fourth and final pitch. Funny ...

Intrepid second Huong, ready to belay on P2.

Intrepid second Huong, ready to belay on P2.

The infamous Parking Lot. Mark Willey lays down and takes a nap before tackling the last pitch.

The infamous Parking Lot. Mark Willey lays down an...

Mark Willey sinking into eyebrows on the last pitch.

Mark Willey sinking into eyebrows on the last pitc...

From The Nose

From The Nose


Add Comment Comments on The Nose
Show which comments
By Ben Lyon
From: Birmingham, AL
Mar 29, 2007

Super fun. A light rack including the doubles of the pink and red tricams, TCUS favoring the small sizes, and nothing larger than a #2 C4 will easily see you to the top. All belays are bolted. Don't miss the P4 direct finish. Careful not to miss the set of rap rings below the 'Parking Lot'...makes for some difficulties.

By Floridaputz
May 2, 2007

The North Carolina guide book calls this the most popular climb in the state. It seems everyone wants to climb this one. The 2nd pitch is the crux. This is protected by a "lost arrow" piton pounded downward. That's all you got til you reach the horizontal crack in the ramp. There are many ways to get up on the ramp. I've gone left and traversed, straight up from the piton and traversed or right and up (most difficult). This goes up to a bolted belay. Most of the pro is horizontal placements. If there is a line go do Sundial. It's just as good.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
May 28, 2007
rating: 5.8

It's easy to see why this one is so popular, it's a stellar line. Though I enjoyed Sundial Crack, I think the Nose is more exciting and certainly more sustained -- few casual sections on this route. Speaking of which, don't let the 5.5 rating on P1 fool you, it's got some interesting moves on it. At the top, it was entertaining to run into people who had come up the hiking trail and were surprised to see us coming up the last pitch ("you mean you climbed all the way from the bottom?").