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Second Coming 

5.7

   

FA: Stan Wallace, Ron Cousins, Art Williams, Jim McEver - 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 1,432 page views

Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006


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Huong struggles with some other leader's welded nu...


Description 

Pitch 1: Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time. 30m

Pitch 2: Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation. 60m


Location 

This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rat's Ass).


Protection 

Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.



Photos of Second Coming Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the crux on Second Coming, Looking Glass, NC

Nearing the crux on Second Coming, Looking Glass, ...

D. Lutes following the first pitch of Second Coming

D. Lutes following the first pitch of Second Comin...


Comments on Second Coming Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Rob Dillon
From: Short Circuit
Oct 16, 2006

Second Coming has scored numerous injuries from people blowing it at the crux and tumbling down the slab. Make sure your gear is solid before you commit.

By Danny Inman
From: Westminster
Apr 1, 2007

Very nice.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.7

Excellent route! It's easy to see why some leaders have taken falls at the crux bulge; it's a delicate sequence on holds that felt a little slick to me. But the move is well-protected.

By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 1, 2008
rating: 5.7

Leaders should be advised that the right face of the corner above the typical pitch 1 belay ledge is composed of large, and very hollow flakes. Be careful how you place gear here, or continue up another 20 feet or so and belay at a smaller ledge.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 14, 2008

very enjoyable climb. Good warm up for the 5.8's on the S Face. I like this climb, you build a belay after the first pitch, the rest is a nice cruise.

By ed hall
From: melbourne fl
Aug 8, 2009

I agree with chuck parks do NOT belay off the flakes, they have been there forever but plenty of other solid cracks and brows to hang an anchor.

By Joshua McDaniel
Nov 21, 2009

Hadn't climbed this route in quite a few years, and someone on the ground told me that 'avoid rope drag on the last pitch by climbing 10-15 feet higher than the ledge just after the crux.'

So I did this and it puts you right underneath the big hanging flake corner. The crack in the corner at the '2nd' ledge is very hollow. I had to tap around for quite a while to find sound placements to belay up my second.

I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Nov 22, 2009
rating: 5.7

Joshua McDaniel wrote:
I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.

I agree, there's no good reason to climb higher to what would be a marginal anchor. I've always used this first ledge whenever I've led Second Coming; there's very solid placements for anchoring there (which is probably why the bolts were chopped), and I've never experienced any rope drag on the second pitch.