Huong struggles with some other leader's welded nu...
Description
Pitch 1: Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time. 30m
Pitch 2: Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation. 60m
Location
This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rat's Ass).
Protection
Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.
Second Coming has scored numerous injuries from people blowing it at the crux and tumbling down the slab. Make sure your gear is solid before you commit.
By jeffinatlanta From: Atlanta, Ga. Dec 17, 2006 rating: 5.7+ PG13
Route description should be edited to read "to the LEFT of Gemini Cracks". Definitely not to the right.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jan 7, 2007 rating: 5.7
jeffinatlanta wrote:
Route description should be edited to read "to the LEFT of Gemini Cracks". Definitely not to the right.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Apr 1, 2007 rating: 5.7
Excellent route! It's easy to see why some leaders have taken falls at the crux bulge; it's a delicate sequence on holds that felt a little slick to me. But the move is well-protected.
By Chuck Parks From: Atlanta, GA Feb 1, 2008 rating: 5.7
Leaders should be advised that the right face of the corner above the typical pitch 1 belay ledge is composed of large, and very hollow flakes. Be careful how you place gear here, or continue up another 20 feet or so and belay at a smaller ledge.
Looking Glass Rock
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