Bloody Crack 

FA:  Stan Wallace, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins in 1973 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8- [details] Length:  3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Season:  Avoid summertime, unless Views: 674 page views Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The start of Bloody (smooth) crack, Looking Glass,...

Description 

Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.

Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation. 5.7+, 50'.

P2: Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.

P3: Meander left to the Gemini raps, 150'.

Location 

Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.

Protection 

No fixed gear. Standard rack.