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Looking Glass Rock

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East Face/Guides Wall (Left side) 
East Face/Guides Wall (Right Side) 
Hidden Wall 
Looking Glass Boulders 
North Side 
Nose Area 
South Side 
Sun Wall 
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Looking Glass Rock  


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Location: 35.2948, -82.7882 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 635,790
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
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Description 

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There 

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

108 Total Routes

['4 Stars',25],['3 Stars',56],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',18],['5.10',27],['5.11',28],['5.12',12],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Second Coming   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   South Side
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   Nose Area
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Nose Area
Gemini Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Side
Rat's Ass   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Side
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Sun Wall
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   Nose Area
The Seal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   North Side
Dinkus Dog   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Side
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   North Side
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'   North Side
Creatures of Waste   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   North Side
The Womb   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   North Side
Cornflake Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   North Side
The Glass I ( Pitch 1 )   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   North Side
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   Sun Wall
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   North Side
Kahntian Ethics   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   North Side
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   North Side
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   North Side
Browse More Classics in Looking Glass Rock

Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
Moonrise on Sundial.  Photo by Michael K.

Sundial Crack 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.P1: 5.5 80' Climb up a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Looking Glass Rock Slideshow Add Photo
A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90...
A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90...
Looking Glass from afar
Looking Glass from afar
A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.
A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.
Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid...
Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid...
rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Magg...
rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Magg...
The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glas...
The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glas...
From the blue ridge parkway...
From the blue ridge parkway...
Looking Glass Sun Wall & South Side from Stone Dep...
Looking Glass Sun Wall & South Side from Stone Dep...
Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"
Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"
A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.
A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.
Nice and green in the winter.  Pisgah has some rea...
Nice and green in the winter. Pisgah has some rea...
The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)
BETA PHOTO: The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)
North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location...
North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location...
Watch out for these guys...
Watch out for these guys...
Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012
Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012
Your best friend at the Glass
Your best friend at the Glass
CC starting out on The Sea of Brows by the Waste s...
CC starting out on The Sea of Brows by the Waste s...
Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West tow...
Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West tow...
I shot this photo while doing some flying in the A...
I shot this photo while doing some flying in the A...
Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.
Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.

Comments on Looking Glass Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By reddirt
Dec 13, 2006
so you're wondering, what the hell are ^^eyebrows^^ ??
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 18, 2006
That's a very handy link, reddirtgirl -- and from a LG pioneer, no less!
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
I realize that LG is popular, but I've always wondered why more people don't spend days or weeks at a time climbing here. It is perfect, really. Free camping in the Natl Forest, 20 minutes from Brevard where you can get excellent food and beer. Go to Looking Glass Outfitters for beta and partners, Pescado's for burritos and wireless, and the Square Root for beer.

I haven't found showers yet...
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Oct 31, 2011
Shower's can be had for a nominal fee from Davidson River Campground if you are not staying there. If camping there, they're free, but I find the National Forest more appealing as well.
By Caleb Spradlin
From: Brevard, NC
Sep 9, 2013
So I was wondering if there are any routes that top out somewhere near the trail at the top?
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Sep 10, 2013
You can make your way to the Tourist Trail (Looking Glass Trail) by topping out most routes from the Nose area all the way over to the South Face. The Nose tops out near the terminus of the trail and others may take a little more wandering to find the trail. If you're planning on walking off...dont! The tourist trail takes you to a different parking area from the Nose or South Face and would end up being another 5 or so mile hike to get back to your car.
By Orlena Tilton
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
May 27, 2014
A few pieces of advice, from my recent experience at Looking Glass:

1st: There is wilderness camping at the area for South Side, near the parking lot. No need to pay $22 for a campsite, or to stay at a hotel if camping is full.

2nd: You should, at a minimum, have one 70m rope...2 is better if you are doing multi-pitch

3rd: This climbing area is MADE for tri-cams!!! =)