Perhaps the best route on Table Rock. 2 fantastic corners connected with some fun face.
This climb connects the first pitch of True Grit with the second pitch of White Light. The rest of the original lines are rarely done and are highly vegetated.
P1: Stem and jam your way up the fantastic corner. At the top, exit left, then climb up and right along crack systems on a nice slab. Belay at a semi-hanging stance in small corner below a large, arching crack.
P2: Step right from the belay and climb out under the roof, then turn the lip where the roof ends and climb the fun corner until where it gets dirty. Look for a clean, almost horizontal traverse right onto a moss clod ledge. Follow this ledge over to the pitons on the North Ridge.
P3: Rap from this pin nest (one 60 m rope will get you to the ground), or continue up the North Ridge (5.5).
Location
About 200 ft downhill (left) of North Ridge. From the parking lot, hike up the summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Take this trail around under the East Face shortly after Helmet/Slippin' into Darkness, the trail turns and starts to climb uphill. Follow it past the Cave Route, over some boulders, and continue for about 200 yards until a small clearing immediately underneath a large, clean, right-facing dihedral about 80 feet high. That's your route.
Protection
Nuts, cams to 3".
There is sometimes fixed gear at the P1 belay, but don't count on it.
The pin nest at the end of P2 usually has a solid rap station. You can rap to the ground from here with one 60 m rope.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Mar 1, 2007
I was really wanting to lead this one after seeing the great pictures in the guidebook, but didn't get around to it last time I was there. Next time, it's my top priority!
You should! It's the best moderate route I've done at Table Rock. If you're up for it I would also highly recommend Waste a Bit, its more difficult neighbor immediately to the left; also very fun/high quality for Table Rock.
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida Feb 19, 2008
I found I was mostly able to stem up the first pitch with very secure jamming. This crack eat's protection. The exit out of the crack left is easy if you are patient. There is still some work left to get to the belay. Continue up p2 past right leaning crack to ledge and we hopped on N ridge to top.
Super cool aesthetic feature, but I thought the corner on Slippin' was better. It was nice that this one was a multi, but I wish that second pitch was a bit longer. Oh well, fun regardless.
best route i have climbed at table rock. some people feel that 5.8 is a bit stiff for the grade, but I think if you take the time to look around and know how to stem, this route can easily be 5.8. gear is ample and bomber.
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