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Slippin' into Darkness 

5.9

   

FA: Mickey Craig, Tom Howard, Jim Dailey - 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 376 page views

Submitted By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 3, 2006


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Description 

Climb the obvious right-facing dihedral using locks, crimps and stemming. Mantle onto a ledge to find fixed rappel anchors.


Protection 

Small cams and stoppers, cams up to 2".



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By Chris Chaney
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 6, 2006

I thought this was much easier and there is a second pitch that takes you to the big ledge. The actual crux (about 5.6) is right off the belay ledge.

All gear, except for the belays.

By Jacob Neathawk
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2006

I might be thinking of a different route....I think this one is also called Slipping Into Darkness? Or at least the one I tried to add to the database. It's only one pitch; are you familiar, Chris?

By Nick Stayner
From: Lee Vining, CA
Nov 15, 2006

Yes, there are three "Helmet Buttress" routes. I believe the standard is a 5.6 that starts in a right-facing corner on the left side of the helmet feature. "Helmet Variation" takes a runout 5.8 line more or less up the middle of the helmet, and "Slippin' Into Darkness" goes up the classic right-facing corner on the right side of the helmet. This one sounds like the one that's described in the description.

By Chris Chaney
From: Golden, Colorado
Dec 27, 2006

I did the 5.6 flake and continued to the big ledge. Didn't do any of the other variations.