Paradise Alley 

FA:  Tom Howard, Bill Newman - 1979 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  4 pitches, 450 feet Views: 505 page views Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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This is the start to Paradise Alley..

Description 

A great route with the first 3 pitches offering spectacular climbing and great protection. A Shortoff classic! This is not a recommended climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders.

P1 (crux). Climb the hand-sized crack through the overhang and continue to the obvious belay in an alcove. 5.8+, 120'

P2. Trend left and up to base of gently overhanging wall. 5.7, 100'

P3. Climb the incredible wall on insanely positive incut holds with a vertical crack that eats gear. Bushwack up beyond the top to large level area. 5.7, 70'

P4. Surmount large block accross gap. Easier on right. 5.8, 60'

Hike back to trail, turn right then back to camp or descent.

Location 

Turn right at base of descent gully and hike for a while. The trail leaves the base of the cliff then returns near it. Keep a lookout for the hand crack through an overhang close to the ground that starts the route.

Protection 

One of everything. Large cams will be helpful on P1 but not necessary.