Paradise Alley  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Tom Howard, Bill Newman - 1979 Submitted By:  Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

This is the start to Paradise Alley..

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Linville Gorge (Shortoff Mountain and NC Wall) closed from January 15th - August 15th MORE INFO >>> It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolinas Peregrine Falcons. While the Peregrine Falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Services endangered species list in 1999. It remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the Peregrine Falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species. Eight pairs nested in 2011, five of which were on Forest Service lands, Of the five pairs on the Forest, only three nested successfully, indicating that long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat. Closure of the cliffs where Peregrine Falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site. and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) Peregrine Falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, I6 USC 703-T12). Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young Peregrine Falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted and enforced. For more information visit www.fs.usda.gov (search for National Forests in North Carolina, then follow two links: Land & Resource Management; Resource Management). Thank you for your continued cooperation with restoration efforts for this magnificent bird of prey. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A great route with the first 3 pitches offering spectacular climbing and great protection. A Shortoff classic! This is not a recommended climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders.

P1 (crux). Climb the hand-sized crack through the overhang and continue to the obvious belay in an alcove. 5.8+, 120'

P2. Trend left and up to base of gently overhanging wall. 5.7, 100'

P3. Climb the incredible wall on insanely positive incut holds with a vertical crack that eats gear. Bushwack up beyond the top to large level area. 5.7, 70'

P4. Surmount large block accross gap. Easier on right. 5.8, 60'

Hike back to trail, turn right then back to camp or descent.

Location 

Turn right at base of descent gully and hike for a while. The trail leaves the base of the cliff then returns near it. Keep a lookout for the hand crack through an overhang close to the ground that starts the route.

Protection 

One of everything. Large cams will be helpful on P1 but not necessary.