Paradise City 

FA:  P-1 Nathan Brown, rope solo P-2 Nathan Brown & Bill Bilbick New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet Season:  any Views: 295 page views Submitted By: nbrown on Nov 30, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Jeff on the steep "crack" of pitch 1.

Description 

Climb to the first small ledge of Paradise Alley and move right to bolt. Clip bolt (doubles as first bolt on "Paradise Lost, which goes straight up) then move up and right past a brief section of chossy rock. Pull the funky move (# 4 Camelot here is nice) to the crack feature, and follow it through the overhangs and up a slab to belay at small ledge (sling). P-2 Continue straight up the buttress on stellar climbing for almost 200' to a large ledge and belay. P-3 Finish on "Paradise Alley". Note: The second pitch is one of the best 5.9 ropelengths around!

Location 

This route climbs the funky orange colored arching crack feature to the right of "Paradise Alley".

Protection 

Blue/green hybrid alien is usefull. # 4 Camelot is also usefull. Bring one of the two, or both.