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Shortoff Mountain
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White Russians Gone Bananas 

White Corner 

5.10a

   
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FA: Ralph Fickel, Jeep Barrett, 1982
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 350 feet
Views: 214 page views

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 18, 2007


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Description 

Great mix of stemming, jamming, and jug pulling. NOTE: The route length includes the approach pitch (whichever you choose) to get to the Corner, which begins about 100' up the wall.
P1: Climb either White Russians Gone Bananas (11a) or Early Times (9) to access the corner. 100'
P2: Stem, jam, and pull your way through the corner, eventually exiting to the right below a roof. Belay shortly after moving out of the corner. NOTE: There is a variation, Sword of the Lord, that takes off to the left somewhere up here. It's described in the book, but I haven't done it. 10a, 60'.
P3: Pull a steep roof just above the belay and continue up lower and lower angle terrain. Set a belay when it's convenient. 5.9, 150'.


Location 

Locate the very large left-facing corner directly above White Russians Gone Bananas, about 100' up.


Protection 

Standard Shortoff rack (set of stoppers, doubles from blue TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2)



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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

It is much better to do this route by linking the "White Corner" with the first section of "Sword Of The Lord". Climb the corner to the end. Instead of belaying here, do a short traverse out left under the roof past a good #3 camelot and onto "Sword Of The Lord". Climb up to bolt at the first opportunity, then continue up HUGE holds to a good ledge for a nice comfy belay. Sword Of The Lord is a very tame 10a, as is White Corner.