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White Russians Gone Bananas 

White Russians Gone Bananas 

5.11a

   

FA: Nathan Brown et al 1997
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 271 page views

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 18, 2007


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Description 

A very nice mixed route with some great thin face climbing, fun steep pulls, and even a bit of crack climbing! Best way to approach White Corner, in my opinion.
P1: Climb up the slabby face past two bolts to a roof. Place gear in a horizontal beneath the roof and move left, pulling around the roof at an obvious weakness. This puts you on top of a ledge. Climb the finger-sized crack and surrounding horizontals into easier terrain, aiming for the White Corner. Set a belay at the bottom of this large left-facing corner. 5.11a, 100'.


Location 

Walking left past Dopey Duck, pass Early Times and scramble down a short (10') chimney between the main wall and a tall boulder. Right before you descend this notch, look at the wall just left of where you're standing. You should see two bolts. You can possibly stick clip one of these bolts from here. There is also a tall evergreen at the base of this route.


Protection 

Two bolts, plus mostly small to mid-sized cams for this pitch. Standard Shortoff rack for the White Corner if continuing.
There is a possibility of rapping off of a slung shrub/tree w/ a 60m rope, but it's best to continue into the White Corner and top out.



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By Tim Snyder
Aug 28, 2009

Great route. Don't skip the gear above the 3rd bolt or you may have an "Ah-Haaaa" moment. Yes, there is a bolt now, protecting the move over the bulge.

To me, the grade felt more mid 5.11 .