Shortoff Mountain

View from Construction Job, a classic 5.9

Description 

Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a hug horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.

Shortoff North/Shortoff South 

The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.

Getting There 

Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You will be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You will pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.

Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. At one point you will cross the Mountain to Sea trail. keep Going straight (west). You will eventually reach a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.

The Classics

Featured Route For Shortoff Mountain

Julia 5.10b  NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain

Ohhhh Julia...boy was she good. Three quality pitches of climbing, each as spicy and interesting as the other. P1 - Work up the same corner as Little Corner until you can step left into an overhanging and "liebacking" fingercrack. Climb until the angle eases off and belay. P2 - Traverse left on thin holds and then up. Climb a short shallow dihedral, then up to a chimney/slot (spooky), make committing moves onto the face and climb up to the t...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Shortoff Mountain Slideshow

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Looking out from the top of Shortoff at Lake James	Looking into Tilted World	A view down Shortoff with climbers on Straight and...
Jon following pitch 2 of "Tall Order"	Mr Brown graciously following the third pitch of "...	The down climb into Shortoff Mtn, Linville Gorge, ...