P1- 5.8: Start from the top of a 10'-high block and climb the wide chimney using face holds until it is possible to gain the arete. Continue up the arete for a short ways and then start trending left and up aiming for the left-facing corner/crack system. Once in the corner continue to the just below the prominent bomb-bay roof. (100 feet)
P2- 5.8: Climb up to and out of the bomb-bay roof, follow the crack and corner system through a couple more bulges until a large ledge is reached. (100 feet)
P3- 5.8: Climb on top of a large block to gain the face. Climb the face, traversing a good distance to the right and then shoot up through the right-side of the bulge, continue up via good holds to a large ledge. At first glance this pitch seems in obvious, but following the holds and the gear placements will lead you up and over the bulge in the right place. (100')
P4- 5.5 Climb the face to the top. (150')
From the top follow a faint trail that is marked with orange blaze back to the main MTS trail.
Location
This route is located on the Main North Carolina Wall. From the approach gully head down stream following a trail at the base of the wall. Look for a very distinct left-facing corner system just before the trail and the wall curves to the left. The start is identified by a 10' high block with a tree at the base and a small tree on top.
Protection
Standard rack. I used a #4 WC Friend under the P2 bomb-bay roof. Nothing larger is needed.
This is a must do route if you are visiting Linville. The climb, location, setting, moves are all quality. Each pitch is great climbing. The trail from the top out (oranges blazes) has been re-flagged with survey tape. If you follow the trail, it leads you back to the top of the Prow near the amphitheatre.
a decent selection of smaller gear will make 3rd pitch traverse alot safer;first pitch is obvious and we went a little right on the second pitch after the bombay part although it looked like either way put you on the belay ledge;not sure where the last pitch really went ; we just wandered up generally following any gear placement that could be found;pretty easy but ended up with some rope drag for sure
Follow the book and don't be tempted to go right on the second pitch. I tried and it was nasty. I wrote a trip report about it here. OnTheSharpEnd.com - BumbleBee Buttrees
RSS Feed
