I take a little breather midway through leading th...
Description
Long, steep and exposed. For the east this is a big route for the grade.
The second and last pitches are the best. The first pitch is so-so, the third pitch is short, and the fourth pitch is a route finding conundrum.
But the views are amazing, the rock is solid. The belays are all natural and the top out is absolutely fantastic.
I was so frazzled after leading this that I had to back off a 5.5 later that day.
This is definitely a classic route.
Location
Across the Ampitheater from the Prow. Head down the Ampitheater and keep toward the southern face. Go past the Mummy and around the corner until you can see a wide, left facing flake above the treeline. This is the top of the first pitch. Start on easy ground below the flake/crack.
P4 is a little runout, but easy climbing. P2 and P3 can be linked if you are very careful about rope drag and don't put any pro in on the 5.3 P3.
This is one of my favorite climbs. Awesome climb to take a new climber on. Not too exposed, great gear, fun moves, beautiful views! scoTt
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jun 4, 2007 rating: 5.6
This is truly a phenomenal route, not to be missed. Rock quality is great and the climbing is fun from start to finish. The views from the upper belays and topout will stay with you.
If you want to make the climb even more exciting (and avoid some boring traverses), take the direct line on P3 -- go straight up from the belay ledge. This short variation goes at 5.8 and it lives up to the grade. It also makes linking P2 and P3 a very easy proposition.
A must do for the leader of any level(well at least 5.6 leaders and up). Real adventure climbing with views big enough to swallow you whole. Don't forget to belay while drooling over the Gold Coast. Go as light as possible and plan to climb out unless you are doing a link up. This climb is alot of fun.
well worth the hike. if you decide to descend the gully after topping out then it is much easier to climb back out on "The Prow" as opposed to hiking back up the gully.
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