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Amphitheater
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Daddy, The 
Mummy, The 
Open Book, The 
Out of sight out of mind 
Prow, The 
S. D. Modiano 

The Daddy 

5.6

   

FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway - 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
Views: 1,058 page views

Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Nov 6, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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I take a little breather midway through leading th...


Description 

Long, steep and exposed. For the east this is a big route for the grade.

The second and last pitches are the best. The first pitch is so-so, the third pitch is short, and the fourth pitch is a route finding conundrum.

But the views are amazing, the rock is solid. The belays are all natural and the top out is absolutely fantastic.

I was so frazzled after leading this that I had to back off a 5.5 later that day.

This is definitely a classic route.


Location 

Across the Ampitheater from the Prow. Head down the Ampitheater and keep toward the southern face. Go past the Mummy and around the corner until you can see a wide, left facing flake above the treeline. This is the top of the first pitch. Start on easy ground below the flake/crack.

Walk off to the left.


Protection 

Standard NC rack. No fixed anchors.



Add Photo Photos of The Daddy
Nomad and Brandon setting the rappell in the Mummy Gully. This pic is a "visual aid" for anyone who might like to try more than one route at the Amphitheatre in a day. After finishing the Daddy or Mummy, Veer left at the top and keep an eye out for a big cleft in the buttress. Walk down a short distance and you will see the view from the above photo as well as rap anchors. The actual rappell is approx. 30 ft. you'll have to slide down rubble the rest of the way. At the bottom, walk left to the next route of your choice. Note: it's best to finish the day on the Prow since the hike out is much, much shorter.

BETA PHOTO: Nomad and Brandon setting the rappell in the Mummy...

Start of P2 - The Daddy 5.6

Start of P2 - The Daddy 5.6

View from the top of the Daddy, looking at the Gold Coast

View from the top of the Daddy, looking at the Gol...

David Hamilton And myself enjoying a great day on the Daddy. Ironicly, my daddy was the one taking this photo, from on top of the prow butress, a couple hundred yards away

David Hamilton And myself enjoying a great day on ...


Add Comment Comments on The Daddy
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By scoTt Millbern
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 30, 2007

P4 is a little runout, but easy climbing. P2 and P3 can be linked if you are very careful about rope drag and don't put any pro in on the 5.3 P3.

This is one of my favorite climbs. Awesome climb to take a new climber on. Not too exposed, great gear, fun moves, beautiful views!
scoTt

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.6

This is truly a phenomenal route, not to be missed. Rock quality is great and the climbing is fun from start to finish. The views from the upper belays and topout will stay with you.

If you want to make the climb even more exciting (and avoid some boring traverses), take the direct line on P3 -- go straight up from the belay ledge. This short variation goes at 5.8 and it lives up to the grade. It also makes linking P2 and P3 a very easy proposition.

By Jonathan Petsch
From: Knoxville, TN
Nov 25, 2007

i like