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Linville Gorge

Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
Administrator: saxfiend
Latitude: 35.8868  Longitude: -81.8851 
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A view north into Linville Gorge from the route Th...


Description 

Linville Gorge is a premier climbing destination in the SE. Routes range from easy multipitch to hardman sandbags. Table Rock and the Amphitheatre are very popular with those seeking more moderate outings while areas like Hawksbill and Shortoff attract a more hardcore crowd.

The rock is quartzite, and typically low angle. There aren't many parallel sided cracks here, and routes can wander so route finding can be an issue. Of course, this make Linville an ideal place for beginning multi-pitch leaders to cut their teeth. The plethora of easier routes combined with some foreseeable challenges create an atmosphere of learning.

Having said that, it is also important to note that despite the easy grade of many of the routes at Table and Linville, they are still rock routes and are affected by the same factors as any other rock climbing route. It is advisable to wear a helmet at all times. Don't count on belay stations to be fixed. Know your route.

Linville is a fantastically beautiful place, with great exposure and lots of fun routes.


Getting There 

From Asheville, take I-40 east toward Marion, exiting at US 70 just west of Marion. Continue on 70 to exit on US 221 and head north to the small town of Linville Falls. At Linville Falls, turn right (east) on NC 183 and drive about four miles to NC 181; turn right again (south). After about 2.5 miles, make another right off 181 onto Gingercake Road (SR 1264) for a short distance, then take the left fork onto Table Rock Road (SR 1261); this changes to forest road 210 and becomes a gravel road. Continue for several miles to the Table Rock parking lot. From here, there is camping and trails leading to Table Rock and to various sections of Linville Gorge.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Linville Gorge:
Jim Dandy   5.4     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Table Rock
The Prow   5.4     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Amphitheater
Peek-a-Boo   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Table Rock
The Mummy   5.5 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   Amphitheater
North Ridge   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Table Rock
The Daddy   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Amphitheater
Little Corner   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Shortoff Mountain
My Route   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   Table Rock
Maginot Line   5.7+     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Shortoff Mountain
Crackerjack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II   Table Rock
Bumblebee Butress   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet   North Carolina Wall
White Lightning   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Table Rock
Paradise Alley   5.8+     Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet   Shortoff Mountain
Construction Job   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Shortoff Mountain
Dopey Duck   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   Shortoff Mountain
Slippin' into Darkness   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Table Rock
Built to Tilt   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Shortoff Mountain
Straight and Narrow   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, 340 feet   Shortoff Mountain
Jeep's Chimney   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hawksbill Mtn
The Open Book   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   Amphitheater
Browse More Classics in Linville Gorge

Featured Route For Linville Gorge
The route

Appalachian Spring 5.12c  NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn
This route has perhaps more variety than others on this wall. Crimpy crux, some jugs, bomber gear placements, and some weird bouldery movement up high....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of Linville Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Linville Falls.  This is where the Gorge starts.

Linville Falls. This is where the Gorge starts.


Comments on Linville Gorge Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Sep 6, 2007

I received this update via email from Bob Underwood

----------
Rockjock Trail

This largely abandoned and overgrown trail was listed in Sept 2006 for the US Forest Service Adopt-a-Trail program . The trail runs about four miles ( by crow ) across the top of a 400ft wall sometimes called the 'Goldcoast'. Altho the NC Wall directly across the Gorge is higher and cleaner, the Rockjock area contains some clean rock on the south side of the 'canyons'. it is currently being 'mined' by various groups of independent climbers. It is a spectacular trail which passes by about 6 waterfalls, overhangs and caves and several unusual promnitories and outcrops.
The agreement with the USGS allows us to work from Conly Cove south to an unpublished trail i call "Mossy Canyon Ridge Trail" (MCRT) about half mile north of Pinchin. If/ when this work is Done, i will requsest Your help in petitioning the USFS to extend the agreement to continue the Rockjock trail south to Dobson Knob Road--which was its original length.

The reason the USFS did not allow us to continue south of MCRT is because that portion of Rockjock never appeared on their maps and they are required to go thru a lengthly process to approve "new" trail. They seem reluctant to do this. Common sense woud suggest that MCRT is a steep trail and highly vulnerable to erosion if it became better known and that the Dobson entrance is Clearly the best way to protect the forest. We hope MCRT will be abandoned and allowed to revert to nature when this project is complete.

This area was burned by the Nov 2000 fire and burned again on its south end in the spring of 2007. It is now a charcoal forest and easy to get thru. A spare fire crew did a wonderful job of restoring trail from both ends and the middle is still unfinished. Your help is needed.

Work began on Rockjock in Oct 2006 and about 60% of the trail is now open.

An interactive map of the entire Linville Gorge is available at www.linvillegorge.net with an index of 39 trails not published on USFS maps ,

Google Earth has hi-res photos of the Gorge which would allow you to see a person standing anywhere in it ,

and Yahoogroups Linvillegorge keeps a open forum running of Rockjock progress.

Finishing this beautiful trail is not going to be a one-day one-shot process , it will requre dedication. Go out and have a look. The Rockjock trail will speak for itself!

Bob Underwood

By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Apr 12, 2008

the US Forest service has opened the Rockjock trail from Conly Cove south to Mossy Canyon Ridge trail allowing a backpacker to return via MCRT to kistler Road

By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Sep 14, 2008

Work on Rockjock was finished by the USFS in Spring of 2008. This trail remains on the USFS Adopt-A-Trail program and will always need occasional maintenance. The southern exit shown on the USFS maps is mislabeled. It is a rim-to-River trail called MCRT (Mossy Canyon Ridge trail). MCRT is now a steep barren flag route thru the heart of fire blast from the 2007 'Pinnacle' fire. Since it is mislabeled as being the south end of Rockjock, it will become an erosion ditch with increased use. Rockjock TRail is unmaintained south of MCRT but continues along the rim of the Gorge 0.5 mile south to Pinchin and beyond all the way to the intersection of kistler Road and Dobson knob road. This fire-damaged trail is now survey flags thru thin scraggly brush but it is relatively flat and will not erode. Pinchin is the better exit. Rock face along this broken wall is a fantastic area of fracture and erosion but not much clean rock. --Bob

By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Sep 14, 2008

Correction to directions:

When you get to Forest Service Road 210 continue down this gently descending and very winding road. A mile past the parking areas for Spence Ridge Trail take a sharp right. This puts you on FSR 2105, the road that leads past OUTWARD BOUND and on up to Table Rock. Bring water as spring at TR is not reliable. Parking can be crowded at TR. Hyde's Linville Gorge Trail guide suggests that it is about as quick to park at Spence and hike up via the MST.

By EliShank
Apr 6, 2009

Is there a peregrine closure period for shortoff or north carolina wall?

By Phil York
Jun 12, 2009

EliShank, yes.

You can keep updated on closures through the year here: http://www.carolinaclimbers.org/area-reports-mainmenu-30/lin>>>>>