P1 5.8 face and slab past some gear and two bolts to a two bolt anchor beow the groove/crack. 110' P2 5.9 R grooving with "decent" gear where the groove is split by a flaring crack for the first 30' followed by 35 or 40 more feet of totally runout wide groove/chimney (if your small) to easier ground to a two bolt anchor below a hanging block. 140' P3 more 5.9 groove past two bolts to the next anchors...two bolts belay. 140' P4 the 5.10+ crux pitch pitch through the headwall utilizing the groove and face...many bolts...to a double bolt belay. 140' P5 5.8 groove to the Lost World Ledge. 110'
Rap the route.
Location
Right of Oasis, left of Central Pillar
Protection
double cams, tricams, lots of draws for the crux pitch, two ropes.
Full disclaimer: I followed P1 which seemed harder than 5.8. Led P2 until I was 30' out from my last piece which was 30' above the belay with 20 more feet to go with no visible pro...very scary and insecure...a downclimb ensued. May go back later and TR that second pitch and give the rest a whirl. I have no need to relive P2 at this juncture.
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