BETA PHOTO: P2; P3 goes up, left, then right@SEMICOL...
Description
This route leads off up and to the left from the top of P1 of Groover. Due to a lack of pro (chopped bolts), the pitch above Groover must be top roped from the anchors at the top of P1 - proper. P1 (the pitch leading off from the tree at the top of P1 of Groover) was chopped. Unless one wants to climb a hundred or so feet of 5.9- with no pro from the top of P1 of Groover, one must follow along the trail at the bottom of the face to the climber's left (way left of Groover, actually up in the canyon) until able to slab up and back to the right on easy ground to a large tree island with a few trees and large moss pads...the anchors at the top of P1 of Pirate's Cove are another 50' or so over from the tree island, but it'd be wise to rope up for the traverse to the bolts...it gets a bit thinner and a bit steeper after the tree island...there is one cam placement to the left of a huge, sparkling piece of quartz in the granite...in case you need to protect the second or have a problem with the runout.
P1: Climb left and up a shallow water groove/track on thin features to a bolted belay. 5.9, 180'
P2: Climb straight up water groove past three bolts and no additional pro. 5.7, 120'
P3: Move left to flaring crack for a cam placement (Offset TCU 0/1 is perfect), then step left to a checker-size left foot on the bulge. Rock onto your left foot over space and the pitch below, with a right foot smear, and no hands to speak of - kind of blank and slopey. Stand up and clip the first bolt. Slab left to a shallow groove/crack past another bolt. Use this feature to lean/hump and bump/slide/lunge around the bulge into the groove to your left. (This is part of 'Arrested Development' 5.12)...once established in the groove, climb up, past a placement or two and two bolts, then right to a tree/bush island and bolted belay. At this point, you will be directly above the belay below...for a weaker second, climb exclusively on your left double rope, leaving the right free to protect the second from a fall into hardman's land down below on A.D...5.9+ 120'
P4: Slab right into the continuation of the same water groove from P2. Climb directly to the top passing four bolts and as many small gear placements...bolted belay 5.8- 200'
Location
Far left apron of the main face.
Protection
Stopers, smaller tricams, Single set of cams through 2.5"
Pitch one has been reestablished. Climb the first pitch of groover. From tree follow the gear left to the groove and the first bolt, continue to A 2 bolt anchor.
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