Although this is a variation to the original line, it is the most common route nowadays...
P1: Climb a crack/weakness to the tree ledge. Belay from the tree. 120' 5.6
P2: Traverse right to climbable rock, trending back left as you face climb up to gain the crack that defines most of this awesome route. Follow the crack to one of two good spots for a belay - large scoops in the rock. NOTE: Stretch it here so you have enough rope for P3. 200' 5.6
P3: Continue along the prominent crack with good gear until it runs out. Traverse right over a thin bulge to a large sloping ledge. Eat your ham sandwich. 180' 5.7
P4: Climb out and up the crack to a 3-4" placement, lower down 30' and traverse right along a quartz dike - sparse pro. Work into the SECOND water groove and get some gear in. Rope drag here is rough. Climb up the poorly protected water groove until you reach gear above nice sized solution pockets. Expect 60' of run out. Belay out of the crack 20' above the solution pockets. 160' 5.8
P5: Water groove has turned into a crack...follow this up to a bolted belay at the top of Forbidden Fruit. 70' 5.7
P6: Continue up crack to a water groove and to the top. Bolted anchors. 100' or so. 5.6
Descent (borrowed from Saxfiend's Gaskin Finish description) The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.
Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140' Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170' Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130' Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180' Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120' Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'
Location
Far left of the face starting in front of a large white pine...look for the tree ledge at the top of P1 crack/weakness (consult the photo). This tree ledge is to the right of a tree ledge accessed via a new route starting in the canyon...don't get them confused.
Protection
Recommended rack: 1 set stoppers 4-10 pink, red, and brown Tricams Double set of Metolius UL TCUs 0-2 (or equal - small offsets handy) Double set of Camalots .4-2 (or whatever) One #3 One 4" piece (for the beginning lower/traverse on P4)
10-12 slings with biners couple cordalettes.
60M rope good, 70M better - double rope rappels, so use doubles or tag a line.
The top of P5 has bolted anchors. Top of P6 has bolted anchors.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jun 6, 2007
Given the potential for epics at Laurel Knob, plus the skimpy route information in the CCC mini-guide, this route description is a real public service. Thanks!
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