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North

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Annex Boulder, The 
Bella Boulder 
Challenger 
Deviation, Lower 
Deviation, Upper 
Downclimb/Sentinel Pass 
East Ironing Board 
Easy Street 
El Primero Boulder 
Eyes of the Canyon 
Fin, The 
First Flatiron 
First Flatironette 
Ghetto, The 
Green Mountain Pinnacle 
Green Thumb 
Gregory Canyon (including The Amphitheatre) 
Herbert Boulder 
Jaws 
Macbeth 
Queen Anne's Head 
Saddle Rock 
Satellite Boulders 
Second Flatiron 
Sentinel Boulders 
Spy, The 
Sunset Flatironette 
Thing, The 
Third Flatiron 
Third Flatironette 
Tomato Rock 
Upper Satellite Boulders 
W.C. Fields Pinnacle 
West Ironing Board 
Willy B 
Woods Quarry 

North Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.9872, -105.293 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 116,442
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    This area includes popular and classic rocks such as the First and Third Flatirons, and the Amphitheatre in Gregory Canyon. Climbs here range from short newer-age sport climbs to long, trad, slab routes, including some of the longer trad routes in the Flatirons: the whole face of the 3rd, which is about 1300 feet and the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron which is about 1400 feet. Hard conglomerate Fountain Formation sandstone is the medium for your rock craft.

    Getting There 

    The usual approach to most routes in the North Flatirons area is from Chataqua Park (which can be crowded) or Gregory Canyon Trailhead (which charges parking fees for non-Boulder County registered vehicles). Take Baseline W. until you see a sign for the park on the left (you can't miss it since it's right below the Flatirons). For the Amphitheatre, continue on Baseline past the park entrance until Baseline curves sharply right up Flagstaff Mtn. Park on the road near here, or on the turn off to the trailhead on the left. You MUST pay for parking at the Gregory Canyon lot if you do not have Boulder County registration or you'll be ticketed by the Man.

    Access 

    Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included Sacred Cliffs, East & West Ironing Boards, The Third Flatiron, Queen Anne's Head, occasionally Gregory Amphitheatre, and possibly others.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 2.5 miles from here

    363 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',92],['2 Stars',151],['1 Star',90],['Bomb',8]
    ['<=5.6',107],['5.7',25],['5.8',23],['5.9',14],['5.10',31],['5.11',16],['5.12',6],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',27],['V2-3',39],['V4-5',32],['V6-7',21],['V8-9',12],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in North

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North:
    A7 -V1   V1 5     Boulder   Satellite Boulders
    Lip Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 100'   The Ghetto
    Underdog   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   The Ghetto
    The Turning Point   V9 7C     Boulder   Satellite Boulders
    Fleshfest   V10 7C+     Boulder   Satellite Boulders
    Freeway   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, 6 pitches   Second Flatiron
    Winky Woo   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad   Third Flatiron
    East Face (Standard)   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 8 pitches   Third Flatiron
    Fandango   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches   First Flatiron
    Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Mountain Pinnacle
    East Face Left   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1300'   Third Flatiron
    Direct Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 10 pitches   First Flatiron
    Friday's Folly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Flatiron
    Smoother   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X     Trad   West Ironing Board
    Waiting For Columbus   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Third Flatiron
    Velvet Elvis   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   East Ironing Board
    Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   Third Flatiron
    Death and Transfiguration   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Green Mountain Pinnacle
    Transgression   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Mountain Pinnacle
    Slave to the Rhythm   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   East Ironing Board
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North

    Featured Route For North
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren Teissier cranking the 5.7 roof, East  Face ...

    East Face Left 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  CO : Flatirons : ... : Third Flatiron
    This is the longest route on the Third Flatiron, and one of the best. The climbing is similar to the Standard Route, although it is nearly twice as long and there are no fixed eye bolts, and no crowds. Due to a general lack of protection and fixed belays, this is not a good route for beginners. Once my wife and I were climbing and a thunderstorm hit us near the roof, and we endured a pounding while hunting for rappel anchors (we were able to get off by leaving only 2 slings).Leave the Royal A...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of North Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Snowstorm of 21 Dec 2006. Find the leaping lion.
    Snowstorm of 21 Dec 2006. Find the leaping lion.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on Boulder from the 3rd.
    Looking down on Boulder from the 3rd.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flatiron sunset.
    Flatiron sunset.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The First Flatiron is probably the most climbed fo...
    The First Flatiron is probably the most climbed fo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Evening Sky looking North from the Flatirons
    Evening Sky looking North from the Flatirons
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering on the BBC capstone of the Satellite Bo...
    Bouldering on the BBC capstone of the Satellite Bo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1st 2nd and 3rd
    1st 2nd and 3rd
    Rock Climbing Photo: First Flatiron.
    First Flatiron.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder from 1st Flatiron.
    Boulder from 1st Flatiron.
    Rock Climbing Photo: 2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe ...
    BETA PHOTO: 2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe ...
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    BETA PHOTO
    Rock Climbing Photo: First and 2nd from a glider.
    First and 2nd from a glider.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Third and the Ironing Boards as seen from the ...
    The Third and the Ironing Boards as seen from the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the First Flatiron.
    BETA PHOTO: Heading up the First Flatiron.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Winter sunrise on Eldo and the Flatirons.
    Winter sunrise on Eldo and the Flatirons.

    Comments on North Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Julian Smith
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 12, 2003
    Great climbing area, but probably not the best place to go when CU has a home game. Trying to get out of there along with all of the football fans is way epic.

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