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> Mt Deltaform
North West Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 5000 ft (1515 m), Grade III |
FA: | Greenwood Boles 1961 |
Page Views: | 2,133 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | kiff on Jul 26, 2016 |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Description
I saw this route from the top of Temple and it screamed 'climb me!' That and the reputation for some crap rock caught my attention, gotta see what purported choss is really like...famous last words.
This is a great mountain route, not overly-intricate route finding (just stay on the ridge!) lots of technical downclimbing and some heart swallowing exposure from time to time. The final notch in 'n' out then in 'n' out feels way out there.
From Wenkchemna Pass one can either tackle the ridge directly via broken ledges and jugs to an easy chimney or said one may move across snow to the left, then steeply up and right to gain the ridge where the direct method meets up where the ridge is quite low angled.
I recommend simply following the ridge from here (the north face is steep and terrifying to look down), encountering some more technical climbing but it's more fun than the slate and shale 3rd class junk you can slog up further right (west). Enjoy summit, number one.
Downclimbing towards the col between Neptuak and Deltaform is involved, selective rappeling will certainly make it easier for some, but is not necessary. I thought this bit had some of the worst rock.
The col holds some very posh overnight accommodations (can be windy). When it begins to steepen again, stick to the ridge line (redundant?). Further along, conditions may force you right into a steep gully/recess which can be snow/ice filled, be prepared.
The final "boulder problem" is the notch- the summit's oh so close! Full of rime and steep on all sides, things suddenly feel serious. The climb out to the summit yields to balance and proper route finding, which feels easier when reversed.
Descend by returning from whence you came.
This is a great mountain route, not overly-intricate route finding (just stay on the ridge!) lots of technical downclimbing and some heart swallowing exposure from time to time. The final notch in 'n' out then in 'n' out feels way out there.
From Wenkchemna Pass one can either tackle the ridge directly via broken ledges and jugs to an easy chimney or said one may move across snow to the left, then steeply up and right to gain the ridge where the direct method meets up where the ridge is quite low angled.
I recommend simply following the ridge from here (the north face is steep and terrifying to look down), encountering some more technical climbing but it's more fun than the slate and shale 3rd class junk you can slog up further right (west). Enjoy summit, number one.
Downclimbing towards the col between Neptuak and Deltaform is involved, selective rappeling will certainly make it easier for some, but is not necessary. I thought this bit had some of the worst rock.
The col holds some very posh overnight accommodations (can be windy). When it begins to steepen again, stick to the ridge line (redundant?). Further along, conditions may force you right into a steep gully/recess which can be snow/ice filled, be prepared.
The final "boulder problem" is the notch- the summit's oh so close! Full of rime and steep on all sides, things suddenly feel serious. The climb out to the summit yields to balance and proper route finding, which feels easier when reversed.
Descend by returning from whence you came.
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