The North Wall is another steep sport wall in Big Chief. As with the rest of Big Chief, the rock is basalt. Here, the rock formed a little differently than further south, resulting in overhung shear slabs devoid of any holds, punctuated with broken parts. This usually results in steep, challenging, VERY sporty routes.
Everything is bolted, coldshuts are common and often old-looking, all routes all under 100 feet, and I would imagine you could lower off with a 50m rope. (not sure though)
The Oven is the inset part of the wall that contains some steep sporty routes. Can't really say i know why it got a different name.
Approach time: ~20 minutes.
From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.
After .6 miles of the gentle remnants of the dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.
Just over the north pass, hang a right and soon you will find yourself at the North Wall... the first two bolted routes are not overhung, but continue a little further to find yourself in the Oven.
Climbing Season For the Big Chief area.
Weather station 3.6 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Wall:
Half Baked 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For North Wall
Laas Rocket 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CA
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : North Wall
This is the second route from the left on The Oven, which heads up a very overhung slabby section that looks less overhung than it actually is. DON'T be misled by Carville's book, as this route is NOT a .10a. It is .10a up to perhaps the second bolt. I "warmed up" on this route, and was a little more than warm by the time I got to the top.The route heads up over three bulges to the top anchors, first gently moving to the right via a scary traverse move, and the back to the left at the top. Th...[more] Browse More Classics in CA