The North Wall is another steep sport wall in Big Chief. As with the rest of Big Chief, the rock is basalt. Here, the rock formed a little differently than further south, resulting in overhung shear slabs devoid of any holds, punctuated with broken parts. This usually results in steep, challenging, VERY sporty routes.
Everything is bolted, coldshuts are common and often old-looking, all routes all under 100 feet, and I would imagine you could lower off with a 50m rope. (not sure though)
The Oven is the inset part of the wall that contains some steep sporty routes. Can't really say i know why it got a different name.
Approach time: ~20 minutes.
From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.
After .6 miles of the gentle remnants of the dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.
Just over the north pass, hang a right and soon you will find yourself at the North Wall... the first two bolted routes are not overhung, but continue a little further to find yourself in the Oven.
Weather station 3.6 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Wall:
Half Baked 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For North Wall
Sunshine 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
: ... : North Wall
This is the rightmost bolted route on the north Wall, and can be easily missed unless you look up about 20 feet in the air just right of Sundance, and around the corner to the right from the other bolted routes of the wall. Climb up a runout and somewhat difficult (5.9) section to the first bolt about 20 feet off the deck. From here, climbing is smearing and using whatever tiny hands you can find in often moderately runout sustained sections. This is definately a newer climb than Sundance, as i...[more] Browse More Classics in CA