North Summit Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus
The North Summit of Mt. Olympus is slightly lower than the main South summit, at 8,959 feet. It is the complex shield of low angle quartzite seen from most of Salt Lake City. On the far right is the West slabs, and rising up on the left skyline is a ridge called Kamp's Ridge. The Great Chimney also climbs a line up to the North Summit, right of Kamp's. With the massive amounts of rock here, some first ascents could definitely be possible too.
The trailhead for this side of Mt. Olympus is the same as for Neff's Canyon. Take 3800 South east from Wasatch Blvd. (towards Mill Creek Canyon). At the stop sign, take a right on Park View Drive. After several changes in direction on this road, take a left on Park Terrace, and then a right on White Way which leads to the obvious Neff's Canyon trailhead parking.
Follow the well defined trail which quickly junctions with a road. Follow the road to a junction 10-15 minutes walk up at a stream crossing. Take a right here, crossing the stream, then follow the trail which goes from well defined to fairly obscure following stream beds. After another 10-15 minutes, another split in the trail is found. A cairn marks a right turn which immediately crosses a small creek. Follow this trail for a small while (couple of minutes), then eventually cut into a drainage coming in from the right. Look for a good way through this - otherwise the bushwhacking can be heinous! This drainage leads up to Kamp's Ridge and the Great Chimney.
Climbing Season For the Mount Olympus area.
Weather station 2.9 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Summit
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Summit
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Summit:
Valhalla 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, 5 pitches, 900'
Featured Route For North Summit
Kamp's Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : North Summit
Looking at the north face of Mt. Olympus you'll see the "West Slabs" on the right side of the mountain -- Kamp's Ridge is on the skyline on the left. This ridge is approached via Neff's Canyon, and good directions to the trailhead can be found here:summitpost.org/kamps-ridge/165... is also some information in the Ruckman/Falcon guide for the Wasatch.To reiterate - park at Neff's and follow a broad dirt road/trail to a stream crossing where the trail forks. Head right here. The tr...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
BETA PHOTO: North Face of Mt Olympus
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
May 14, 2008
The Memorial Couloirs can offer a quick descent from the North Summit climbs. We've been summit to car in less than 40 minutes using the main chute when it's filled with snow (without snow it become far more treacherous and should be avoided; also, with snow, wall to wall wet slides are possible).
Use caution though- the obvious line out of the immediate saddle cliffs out. The main line is a little less obvious and the entire length to the canyon floor is visible from the top treed headwall. There used to be a fixed line out of the 'Chimney' notch into the couloirs but I think it finally rotted out.
Anyhow, the main chute deposits you back in North's Fork (couple of short route-finding downclimbs), near where, on the ascent, you turn right into the 'hidden couloir' route to the Great Chimney. In the right conditions it's a fun exit to an occasionally tortuous descent.