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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fuck it dude, let's go bowling 
Great Chimney, The 
Valhalla 
Valhallelujah! 

North Summit 


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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 12, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: North Face of Mt Olympus

Description 

The North Summit of Mt. Olympus is slightly lower than the main South summit, at 8,959 feet. It is the complex shield of low angle quartzite seen from most of Salt Lake City. On the far right is the West slabs, and rising up on the left skyline is a ridge called Kamp's Ridge. The Great Chimney also climbs a line up to the North Summit, right of Kamp's. With the massive amounts of rock here, some first ascents could definitely be possible too.


Getting There 

The trailhead for this side of Mt. Olympus is the same as for Neff's Canyon. Take 3800 South east from Wasatch Blvd. (towards Mill Creek Canyon). At the stop sign, take a right on Park View Drive. After several changes in direction on this road, take a left on Park Terrace, and then a right on White Way which leads to the obvious Neff's Canyon trailhead parking.

Follow the well defined trail which quickly junctions with a road. Follow the road to a junction 10-15 minutes walk up at a stream crossing. Take a right here, crossing the stream, then follow the trail which goes from well defined to fairly obscure following stream beds. After another 10-15 minutes, another split in the trail is found. A cairn marks a right turn which immediately crosses a small creek. Follow this trail for a small while (couple of minutes), then eventually cut into a drainage coming in from the right. Look for a good way through this - otherwise the bushwhacking can be heinous! This drainage leads up to Kamp's Ridge and the Great Chimney.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Summit:
Valhallelujah!   5.8 R     Trad, 6 pitches, 850 feet, Grade III   
Valhalla   5.9 R     Trad, 5 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in North Summit

Featured Route For North Summit
This is one of the lower pitches of The Great Chimney.

The Great Chimney 5.6  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : North Summit
This route is a good adventure route. There are no particular sections of brilliant climbing, however the route in its entirety is good. Know how to climb chimneys, and you'll send easily. There isn't a need to lug any big cams up there, as there are gear possibilities everywhere.Iv'e heard this route is good in March, as a consolidated snow climb.You can rap the route via multiple sections of bomber stainless steel anchors. Thanks goes out to whomever drilled those bolts! -tda ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of North Summit Slideshow Add Photo
Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)

BETA PHOTO: Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)

Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus

BETA PHOTO: Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus


Comments on North Summit Add Comment
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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
May 14, 2008

The Memorial Couloirs can offer a quick descent from the North Summit climbs. We've been summit to car in less than 40 minutes using the main chute when it's filled with snow (without snow it become far more treacherous and should be avoided; also, with snow, wall to wall wet slides are possible).

Use caution though- the obvious line out of the immediate saddle cliffs out. The main line is a little less obvious and the entire length to the canyon floor is visible from the top treed headwall. There used to be a fixed line out of the 'Chimney' notch into the couloirs but I think it finally rotted out.

Anyhow, the main chute deposits you back in North's Fork (couple of short route-finding downclimbs), near where, on the ascent, you turn right into the 'hidden couloir' route to the Great Chimney. In the right conditions it's a fun exit to an occasionally tortuous descent.