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Arapahoe Peaks
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North Star Couloir 
Skywalker Couloir 
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North Star Couloir 

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,206
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Jun 3, 2001
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Crankin' teles down the couloir.

Description 

This gem of a snow couloir winds its way up the secluded West face of North Arapaho Peak (13,502'). Climb this route early in the spring during a good snow year as the upper section of the route melts out and reveals an unpleasant, steep scree field. You might be accessing this climb from a busy trailhead, but you leave the crowds behind once you cross onto the western face of the Arapahoes.

It is a long way to the North Star, 8 miles round trip from the Fourth of July trailhead, so a high bivy might make sense to ensure you arrive at the couloir when it is still firm and stable. However, due to the northwesterly exposure and the deep inset of the couloir, the route remains in the shade most of the morning. An ice axe and crampons are recommended to prevent a high speed, pinball descent down the rock lined walls of this twisting couloir. Expect steep sections to approach 45 degrees, especially near the top, depending on the year.

Start from the Fourth of July trailhead and follow the directions as if you were going to climb the Skywalker Couloir on the South Face. Once below Skywalker Couloir, follow the drainage north to a col between South Arapahoe Peak and Quarter-to-Five Peak. Descend the other side to about 11,400' and contour under the spectacular west face of South Arapahoe and North Arapahoe. Look for the hidden entrance to the couloir on the north side of the west face of North Arapahoe. You've gone to far if rock cliffs of the face turn to the south and bar further contouring. You can identify the North Star, because it jogs left behind the rock walls past the entrance.

Once you're in the couloir, you'll wind up the face loosing sight of the bottom and top on a sinuous journey to a notch at 13,200'. The upper section of the route is exposed to harsh winds and is often scoured, expect some steep climbing up loose scree to the notch. The views from the notch are breathtaking with the North Face dropping steeply below on the other side and the backside of the Brainard Lake complex looming across the gorge. To the north is Long's Peak dominating its domain, and to the south and west miles and miles of white capped mountains. A short scramble up moderate gullies leads to the huge North Arapahoe cairn. Descend your ascent route (recommended on skis or snowboard) or complete a loop to South Arapahoe along the South Ridge route and descend the Southeast Ridge to the Fourth of July trail.


Protection 

Ice axe and crampons.



Photos of North Star Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Smith entering the couloir - good beta shot here for recognizing [higher up on the route].
Smith entering the couloir - good beta shot here f...
Climbed Mt. Neva to look at the North Star route. Looks pretty full still! With the turns in the couloir, it was difficult to get everything in one shot (with iPhone no less). Hope this helps!  Taken 6-14-13.
BETA PHOTO: Climbed Mt. Neva to look at the North Star route. ...
Climbing up the couloir, this is near the start.  Note the chunky nature of the snow, and two climbers visible high up the couloir.
Climbing up the couloir, this is near the start. ...
Alex Green climbing the couloir.
Alex Green climbing the couloir.
Michael Smith muggs on the descent.
Michael Smith muggs on the descent.
Where the snow turns to scree...yup, it is kinda steep.  The start of the skiing is right below Smith.
Where the snow turns to scree...yup, it is kinda s...
Climbing the middle of the couloir.
Climbing the middle of the couloir.
Looking down from near the top of the couloir.
Looking down from near the top of the couloir.
The Northstar couloir is mostly hidden in this photo, but it begins near the center and heads up and right to the rightmost notch in the skyline.  When you approach, you will traverse in on the big snow slope (from the right), but when skiing down it's fun to go lower than this.
The Northstar couloir is mostly hidden in this pho...
Skiing steep crud in the middle.
Skiing steep crud in the middle.
Around 1000 ft of excellent quality snow climbing, the last 400 ft or so is all scree and boulders, while you "could" snow climb on the sides for another 200 ft or so.
BETA PHOTO: Around 1000 ft of excellent quality snow climbing,...
Comments on North Star Couloir Add Comment
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By jkglenn
From: Tabernash, CO
May 27, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Just climbed Northstar this past weekend. Still plenty of snow! Also lots of wetslide debris. Death cookies everywhere. Sat on top for a few hours and didn't ski until almost 11:00. Was still very hard snow. Overall, great trip and fun climb!

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2004

It is mysterious that comments on this route keep disappearing.