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 ADVANCED
Rope de Dope Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Float Like a Butterfly TR 
How Low Can You Go? S,TR 
Immortal Beloved S 
Low Blow S 
Mini Bender S 
Morgantown S 
North Slab Crack T,TR 
Rope de Dope Crack T 
Shamu S 
Sleepy Town S 
Sting Like a Bee S 

North Slab Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Alan Watts, JoAnn Miller-Watts 1991
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Ebb on Jun 3, 2010

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Description 

Originally rated 5.3X in the first edition of Watts' book, the second edition now rates this at 5.5R. While not difficult, the lower moves are awkward enough that a rating above 5.3 seems warranted. Poorly protected for trad climbing, but a good beginner route once a TR is established. For the very small or very timid, one can "cheat" a bit by starting up and left of the crack, although this would likely downgrade the route back to the 5.3 range.

Location 

Furthest left route on the North (left) side of the block (left of "How Low Can You Go"). Start in the flaring crack and work your way up.

Protection 

No bolts. Poor/limited placement for trad gear. Does have anchors at the top.


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By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 3, 2010

This is a great spot to string up the kiddos on a top rope. My son (5) and daughter (3) both made it about half way up the route by starting just up and left of the true (crack) start. They could have likely finished the route if their anxiety hadn't gotten the best of them!