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DescriptionPeople use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb. Getting ThereFrom the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm 5.9+ Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II
Safari Arete (extension) 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
The Seal 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Pooter the Poacher 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet
Invisible Airwaves 5.10c A2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III
Creatures of Waste 5.10c A3 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade IV
Killer Whales 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Cornflake Crack 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
The Womb 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Safari Jive 5.11c Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Safari Jive Double Direct 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet
Bombelay 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Extra Crimpy Chicken 5.11d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Whitney's Excellent Route 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Waverly Waster 5.12a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Waste Not, Want Not 5.12 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Glass Menagerie 5.13a PG13 Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For North Side
Invisible Airwaves 5.10c A2 NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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