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North Side
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Bombelay 
Cornflake Crack 
Creatures of Waste 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig 
Extra Crimpy Chicken 
Glass Menagerie, The 
Guillotine, The 
Invisible Airwaves 
Invisible Airwaves Direct 
Killer Whales 
Off the Wall 
Pooter the Poacher 
Ride the Lightning 
Safari Arete (extension) 
Safari Jive 
Safari Jive Direct 
Safari Jive Double Direct  
Seal, The 
Sperm, The 
Waste Not, Want Not 
Waverly Waster 
Whitney's Excellent Route 
Womb, The 

North Side 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: From the trail.

Description 

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm   5.9+     Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   
Safari Arete (extension)   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
The Seal   5.10a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III   
Creatures of Waste   5.10c A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade IV   
Killer Whales   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Cornflake Crack   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   
The Womb   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   
Safari Jive   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Safari Jive Double Direct    5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   
Bombelay   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Extra Crimpy Chicken   5.11d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Waverly Waster   5.12a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in North Side

Featured Route For North Side
Invisible Airwaves

Invisible Airwaves 5.10c A2  NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of North Side Slideshow Add Photo
Late Great Doc Bayne and Myself on Carolina Hog Farm 1988.

Late Great Doc Bayne and Myself on Carolina Hog Fa...

The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side late eighties

The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...