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North Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bombelay T 
Brain Dead T 
Captain Kangaroo T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 
Glass Menagerie, The T 
Guillotine, The T 
Invisible Airwaves T 
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
Kahntian Ethics T,S 
Killer Whales T 
Off the Wall T 
Pooter the Poacher T 
Practice Aid Route T,TR 
Reign of Fire T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
Ride the Lightning T 
Safari Arete (extension) T 
Safari Jive T 
Safari Jive Direct T 
Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
Seal, The T 
Shrimp Cocktail T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

North Side Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.30405, -82.79583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,286
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron James Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Forecast:
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Late Great Doc Bayne and Myself on Carolina Hog Fa...

Description 

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',13],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in North Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Side:
The Sperm   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
The Seal   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+     Aid, 5 pitches, 520'   
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'   
Creatures of Waste   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   
The Womb   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Killer Whales   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cornflake Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
The Glass I ( Pitch 1 )   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   
Safari Jive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Bombelay   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Extra Crimpy Chicken   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Off the Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Invisible Airwaves Direct   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Waverly Waster   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kahntian Ethics   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Side

Featured Route For North Side
Rock Climbing Photo: Invisible Airwaves

Invisible Airwaves 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2  NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of North Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90...
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Side, from Cornflake Crack ledge. Climbe...
The North Side, from Cornflake Crack ledge. Climbe...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Side trail head
BETA PHOTO: North Side trail head
Rock Climbing Photo: From the trail.
BETA PHOTO: From the trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Little on Brain Dead  Taken from Creatures of...
Ryan Little on Brain Dead Taken from Creatures of...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the glass from the north side parking lot
View of the glass from the north side parking lot
Rock Climbing Photo: Waves of Granite
Waves of Granite
Rock Climbing Photo: From the trail. Looks intimatating for someone vis...
From the trail. Looks intimatating for someone vis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barrett Pauer at the 2nd pitch anchors of Zombie Z...
Barrett Pauer at the 2nd pitch anchors of Zombie Z...

Comments on North Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By nbrown
From: western NC
Apr 30, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Looks like the old rap tree at the top of P-3 of Cornflake and The Womb finally parted ways with the ledge. The bolted rap anchor that I put in (a few years back) to replace the tree is a bit more exposed to get to now -- the tree took out a good bit of earth -- so be careful on the traverse.

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