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North Side

Select Route:
Bombelay T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
Glass Menagerie, The T 
Guillotine, The T 
Invisible Airwaves T 
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
Kahntian Ethics T,S 
Killer Whales T 
Off the Wall T 
Pooter the Poacher T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
Ride the Lightning T 
Safari Arete (extension) T 
Safari Jive T 
Safari Jive Direct T 
Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
Seal, The T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 

North Side 


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Page Views: 115,996
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Forecast:
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Partly Cloudy
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Clear
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
74° | 60°
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67° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
74° | 57°
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Description 

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',11],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
Safari Arete (extension)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
The Seal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'   
Creatures of Waste   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   
The Womb   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Cornflake Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Killer Whales   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Guillotine   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Safari Jive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Safari Jive Double Direct    5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Bombelay   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Extra Crimpy Chicken   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Waverly Waster   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kahntian Ethics   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in North Side

Featured Route For North Side
Phil Hoffmann on route.  Photo by Adam Johnson.

Waverly Waster 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
This is a fantastic face route climbing a clean white face on perfect rock with athletic moves. It follows the natural features, so tends to wander a bit. There is a tough spot in the first two bolts then a good shake where you can place a small tcu before a deceiving move left. Get a real good shake at a circlehead (can place a yellow TCU here as well), then bust straight right campusing on half-pad crimps. The crux may be clipping the last bolt...maybe you should skip it?? ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of North Side Slideshow Add Photo
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side late eighties
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...
From the trail.
BETA PHOTO: From the trail.
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90's of Brain Dead and Horses & Hogs.  Taken from Invisible Airwaves. <br /> <br />I think the climbers were: Rick P, Todd "X", Kevin M, and Mickey H.
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90...
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