Late Great Doc Bayne and Myself on Carolina Hog Fa...
People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Side
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Side:
The Sperm 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
The Seal 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
The Womb 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Safari Jive 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Bombelay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For North Side
Invisible Airwaves 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
: Looking Glass Rock
: North Side
Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
From: western NC
Apr 30, 2016
Looks like the old rap tree at the top of P-3 of Cornflake and The Womb finally parted ways with the ledge. The bolted rap anchor that I put in (a few years back) to replace the tree is a bit more exposed to get to now -- the tree took out a good bit of earth -- so be careful on the traverse.