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People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.
25 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
The Seal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Safari Arete (extension) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Pooter the Poacher 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Invisible Airwaves 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'
Creatures of Waste 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'
Killer Whales 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
The Womb 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Cornflake Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
The Guillotine 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Safari Jive 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Safari Jive Double Direct 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Bombelay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Extra Crimpy Chicken 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Whitney's Excellent Route 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Invisible Airwaves Direct 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Waverly Waster 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Kahntian Ethics 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Waste Not, Want Not 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The Glass Menagerie 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad, 7 pitches, 900'
Featured Route For North Side
Safari Jive 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Pitch 1: This is a great 5.8 warmup or option for gumbier climbers that you drag over to the N Face. It features a nice tips splitter on a slab. Many folks climb only the first pitch and belay off a dying tree with webbing around it. This probably needs bolts (heaven forbid). Those hollow aluminum rap rings are for single use only and should not be part of a permanent, heavily used belay station. Follow this link to learn more: climbaz.com/service/rapring.html If you are going to be...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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