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DescriptionIn general the crags on this side of the gorge are sunny, dry and have an earlier history than those of the South side. As a function of being climbed from an earlier date there are many more established routes on this side of the river than on the South side. This side of the gorge is a great place to come on a cool day, rainy day, shady day, morning, evening, or after soem rainy days. Getting ThereNorth Side of the gorge, across the bridge from Fayetteville. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
Fantasy 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area
Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Bubba City : Sandstonia
New Yosemite 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet Junk Yard Wall
Super Crack 5.9+ Trad Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Junk Yard Wall
The Entertainer 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Junk Yard Wall
Black and Tan 5.10a Trad, 80 feet Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area
Decameron, The 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Bubba City : Sandstonia
Burning Calves 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Handsome and Well-Hung 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress
Legacy 5.11a Sport, 90 feet Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Aesthetica 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area
Leave it to Jesus 5.11c Trad, 100 feet Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Freaky Stylee 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Endless Wall : Fern Point
Agent Orange 5.12a Trad, 70 feet The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area
Jesus and Tequila 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Endless Wall : Honeymooners' Ladders
Quinsana Plus 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Endless Wall : Honeymooners' Ladders
Dial 911 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
The Racist 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Ride The Lightning 5.13b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : The Cirque
Featured Route For North Side
Sheer Energy 5.11a WV : New River Gorge : ... : Central Bubba
Climb up an overhanging face passing 2 bolts and horizontals with great holds. Pull up on to a low angle stance to reach a crack in a short dihedral. Climb the crack to the end and pull a small overhang(crux). Head slightly right and then straight up to reach the shuts at the top of the cliff. This route is excellent the entire way. Feels somewhat like a trad route. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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