Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
New River Gorge Proper

Select Area...
Ambassador Buttress 
Beauty Mountain 
Bridge Area 
Bubba City 
Cotton Top 
Domino Point 
Endless Wall 
Fern Buttress 
Junkyard Area 
Kaymoor 
Keeney's Buttress 
South Nuttall 
Sunshine Crag 

New River Gorge Proper  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.0779, -81.0634 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 936,701
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007
Forecast:
Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Clear
65° | 50°
Clear
61° | 41°
Clear
76° | 54°
Partly Cloudy
77° | 55°
Chance of Rain
59° | 41°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Description 

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.

Location 

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

653 Total Routes

['4 Stars',123],['3 Stars',296],['2 Stars',164],['1 Star',51],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',32],['5.8',41],['5.9',64],['5.10',153],['5.11',158],['5.12',140],['5.13',34],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New River Gorge Proper:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Rico Sauve   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Psycho Wrangler   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cotton Top
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Endless Wall : The Cirque
Browse More Classics in New River Gorge Proper

Featured Route For New River Gorge Proper
TtheT climbs the tiger-striped face immediately left of the large dihedral.

Tony the Tiger 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Seven Eleven Wall
Start by scrambling up to a ledge and climb the crack system to reach the first overhang. Pull the overhang and work up a flake to reach the next overhang. Traverse left under the overhang to reach a flared flake, pull up and gain a stance (crux). From here, follow positive holds all the way to the top to reach the final overhang. At the final overhang, move a bit left and climb straight up to reach a large protruding block and make the final clip. Figure out a way to get in position to cl...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of New River Gorge Proper Slideshow Add Photo
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Ministry.
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Minis...
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.

Comments on New River Gorge Proper Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 13, 2011
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila??
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2011
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles....
By katiepl87
Apr 19, 2014
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail?
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 19, 2014
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price.