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BETA PHOTO: North Side.
Climb inside corner and deep awkward crack, which is wide enough at the crux to be considered a small chimney. Easy to protect until you reach the crux. A small lateral crack is hidden out of view within the small chimney and it can be hard to reach from the stance below, but it's a bomber small nut placement. The crux consists of making the committing and very exposed move out left before moving up into the crack. After another step up or two, there's a large handhold and a good placement for a #3 Camelot if you think you still need it, since at that point your one step below being able to grab the top of the tower.
Pretty obvious line up the wide inside corner on the north side of the tower. I usually rap from the top which leaves good anchor in place to clip and then belay your second on up. There's a gully access just north of the tower, but it's steep and usually quite muddy.
Mostly nuts, a tricam or two and a #3 Camelot.
Good butt shot on a great route.
From: Madison, WI
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun features all over this route. A great climb.