|Type:||Trad, 10 pitches, 1150', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||J. Ogden, T. Donahue, V. Shultz-Pelkum, 2009|
|Season:||Shade until 3 pm in summer!|
|Submitted By:||Jay 1975 on Sep 11, 2011|
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By chris Kalous
Jun 17, 2013
This is a good summer route: a bit licheny but rarely chossy, some engaging protection and climbing. The 5 pitch is worth the price of admission alone. I posted a detailed topo, more detailed than the other version here. Beware: less adventure with my topo.
Getting off the top is a bit of an adventure, though. The rap anchor is nearly impossible to spot from the Cross Fissures overlook, so don't bother unless you have binos.
From the top, it's on a ledge that is directly above the highest part of the gully below. The overlook will be a little to the left when facing out from the ledge. We noticed that the ledge lip looked cleaned off, and that's what led us there.
After the rap, climb up on a pedestal directly across the gully, then angle up left towards the overlook on mostly easy choss. Two pitches or simul-climb 80 meters to overlook.
This would all be very difficult in the dark, so plan accordingly.
I also agree that it's probably not 5.11+. That is no diss on the FA party. There is some serious climbing on the route for sure, but no crux seems sustained enough to warrant the + in my opinion. It's probably already cleaner than it was and has eased up a bit.
By Jay 1975
Sep 27, 2015
|Installed a second rap anchor to alleviate the need for a tagline, but you do need a 70m to reach it. It's nuts and cams with fixed cord and biners.|