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North Ridge 

5.4

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
FA: Ray Van Aken & Art Lembeck, 1952
Submitted By: M.Morley on May 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak

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Description 

It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so hopefully others will add details...

Mostly 4th class climbing with a couple sections of up to 5.4. A fun, easy, and accessible peak for the aspiring alpinist.

Descend to the SW down loose talus.


Location 

From Whitney Portal (7,900'), follow the Meysan Lakes drainage (marked trail) SSW towards Little/Lower Meysan Lake (~10,000'). Lone Pine Peak will be visible to the SE.


Protection 

Alpine rack.



Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
The North Ridge follows the obvious right skyline of Lone Pine Peak. The ridge line dropping to the left and then towards the camera is the North East Ridge which is also supposedly quite good but requires a lot more hiking and thus a significantly longer day.

The North Ridge follows the obvious right skyline ...

Caroline Schaumann on the North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak

Caroline Schaumann on the North Ridge, Lone Pine P...

North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak

North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak

Caroline Schaumann after the short approach to Lone Pine Peak

Caroline Schaumann after the short approach to Lon...

Looking north up the eastern edge of the Sierras and the Owens River Valley from the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.

Looking north up the eastern edge of the Sierras a...

The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak looming above a beautiful grove of Foxtail Pines.

The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak looming above a ...

start/end of approach ramp noted

BETA PHOTO: start/end of approach ramp noted

the many towers that make up the n ridge

BETA PHOTO: the many towers that make up the n ridge

looking back down toward the owens valley

BETA PHOTO: looking back down toward the owens valley

the first major obstacle

BETA PHOTO: the first major obstacle

the great leaning flake

BETA PHOTO: the great leaning flake

fixed pins mark the start of the crux

BETA PHOTO: fixed pins mark the start of the crux

rest of the crux section

BETA PHOTO: rest of the crux section

meysan lakes

meysan lakes

n ridge & the owens valley

n ridge & the owens valley

final slabs to the summit

final slabs to the summit

Lisa Pritchett and Dave Burda getting an early start on the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.

Lisa Pritchett and Dave Burda getting an early sta...

Winter ascent of the complete NRLPP

Winter ascent of the complete NRLPP

Gearing up for a winter ascent of the complete NRLPP

Gearing up for a winter ascent of the complete NRL...

Miguel starting up the ridge

Miguel starting up the ridge

about to get to the good part

about to get to the good part

the notch

the notch

one of the downclimbs

one of the downclimbs

traverse into the notch

traverse into the notch

on the second tower

on the second tower

fun crack climbing

fun crack climbing

easier ground before the summit

easier ground before the summit

final summit push

final summit push

last blocks before the summit

last blocks before the summit

Miguel reminiscing on the traverse

Miguel reminiscing on the traverse

alternate, more technical approach to gain the ridge

alternate, more technical approach to gain the rid...

slabs on the alternate approach to the ridge

slabs on the alternate approach to the ridge

looking down the alternate approach

looking down the alternate approach

view to the west

view to the west

the long ridgeline

the long ridgeline

Mike heading for the ridgeline proper

Mike heading for the ridgeline proper

Keeler Needles & Whitney peeping over the right-hand skyline

Keeler Needles & Whitney peeping over the right-ha...

many towers left to go

many towers left to go

crossing the slabs

crossing the slabs

chossy downclimb into the notch

chossy downclimb into the notch

first thought-provoking crack

first thought-provoking crack

looking down to the Owens Valley

looking down to the Owens Valley

the leaning boulders in early season

the leaning boulders in early season

more easy climbing

more easy climbing

Mike pulling a short grunty move

Mike pulling a short grunty move

notch before the summit tower

notch before the summit tower

early season ice

early season ice

Mike investigating a harder variation

Mike investigating a harder variation

looking down from the final summit tower

looking down from the final summit tower

final push

final push

almost to the top

almost to the top

descent to Meysan Lakes

descent to Meysan Lakes

The North Ridge provides an awesome backdrop to Joe climbing on the summit headwall of Lone Pine Peak

The North Ridge provides an awesome backdrop to Jo...


Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
May 21, 2009

It doesn't seem necessary to add to the vast route beta available in guide books but I will say that there is no more than 1 pitch of 5th class that starts out of a large notch 2/3 up the route. The crux is a brief two or three move layback corner before the climbing eases off to 3rd-4th class. The scenery is stunning.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.5

Did this route today. Very fun climb, although it's mostly class 3/4. I love ridge climbs, the location you are in when climbing them is just so cool!

From other people's beta it seems there are 3 fifth class sections, but I could see how you would say only one, as they are all very easy. The first section of 5th class is right after the initial notch (down and left) and consists of a fairly low angle crack in a corner that is very secure (Some might call this 4th, felt low/mid fifth to me though). The "crux" is a short lieback crack, and it's no more than 5.5. There are numerous positive knobs on the face, which makes the lieback moves pretty easy. Just after the lieback there is an offwidth to the right that is described as 5.7 in the Secor book. I usually take the Dolphine at JTree as a benchmark for 5.7 OW and this was nowhere near as difficult as that. I think it was more like 5.3, as it was short, there were numerous features, and you could reach deep to get a solid handjam. Also, there are lots of variations possible, so it may be possible to make this climb harder or easier. There were definitely ways to avoid the offwidth.

On the descent make sure you pick the right gully. I picked the wrong one (I believe I descended too soon) and it started out as scree hell and then cliffed out. I spent a bunch of time figuring out a way to downclimb the cliffouts past other people's rap anchors since I didn't have a rope. The whole time storm clouds were building which made for an exciting end to the day! Supposedly if you go the right way it's just class 2 scree (no cliffs) the whole way down.

By Tom Fralich
From: Fresno, CA
Aug 24, 2011

This route is presented by Croft as something to do when "the altitude is bugging you or you're too tired or hung over..." I completely disagree. We stayed almost entirely on the crest and there were many sections of 5th class climbing. The descent is also not straightforward. We met another party on their way out who had to bivy at 2AM due to problems finding the descent. This route is a big day, even if you short-cut around some of the towers.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.6

21 hours on the move. This is a complex ridge, and much of the fun and adventure is not being able to see what's around the next corner and not really knowing where the hell you are. The going is reasonably easy if you're smart about your route choices. You can pretty easily keep it interesting and under 5.6 for pretty much the entire route if you're careful. Still, there's plenty of trip reports out there from people with experience who ended up having an epic on this ridge. YMMV.

I have posted a trip report with some decent info on finding the correct descent here, though you should definitely accept that there is no beta out there for this route that will serve you as well as (or substitute for) good judgement.

By mark felber
From: Frisco, CO,USA
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.5

I followed cairns and a faint user trail down to the SW gully from the true summit, no route finding issues. If you start straight down after finishing the 5th class stuff then things might be different.