|7,516 page views|
North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak
It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so hopefully others will add details...
Mostly 4th class climbing with a couple sections of up to 5.4. A fun, easy, and accessible peak for the aspiring alpinist.
Descend to the SW down loose talus.
From Whitney Portal (7,900'), follow the Meysan Lakes drainage (marked trail) SSW towards Little/Lower Meysan Lake (~10,000'). Lone Pine Peak will be visible to the SE.
The North Ridge follows the obvious right skyline ...
Caroline Schaumann on the North Ridge, Lone Pine P...
North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak
Caroline Schaumann after the short approach to Lon...
Looking north up the eastern edge of the Sierras a...
The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak looming above a ...
BETA PHOTO: start/end of approach ramp noted
BETA PHOTO: the many towers that make up the n ridge
BETA PHOTO: looking back down toward the owens valley
BETA PHOTO: the first major obstacle
BETA PHOTO: the great leaning flake
BETA PHOTO: fixed pins mark the start of the crux
BETA PHOTO: rest of the crux section
n ridge & the owens valley
final slabs to the summit
Lisa Pritchett and Dave Burda getting an early sta...
Winter ascent of the complete NRLPP
Gearing up for a winter ascent of the complete NRL...
Miguel starting up the ridge
about to get to the good part
one of the downclimbs
traverse into the notch
on the second tower
fun crack climbing
easier ground before the summit
final summit push
last blocks before the summit
Miguel reminiscing on the traverse
alternate, more technical approach to gain the rid...
slabs on the alternate approach to the ridge
looking down the alternate approach
view to the west
the long ridgeline
Mike heading for the ridgeline proper
Keeler Needles & Whitney peeping over the right-ha...
many towers left to go
crossing the slabs
chossy downclimb into the notch
first thought-provoking crack
looking down to the Owens Valley
the leaning boulders in early season
more easy climbing
Mike pulling a short grunty move
notch before the summit tower
early season ice
Mike investigating a harder variation
looking down from the final summit tower
almost to the top
descent to Meysan Lakes
The North Ridge provides an awesome backdrop to Jo...
May 21, 2009
It doesn't seem necessary to add to the vast route beta available in guide books but I will say that there is no more than 1 pitch of 5th class that starts out of a large notch 2/3 up the route. The crux is a brief two or three move layback corner before the climbing eases off to 3rd-4th class. The scenery is stunning.
From: Boise, ID
Jul 24, 2010
Did this route today. Very fun climb, although it's mostly class 3/4. I love ridge climbs, the location you are in when climbing them is just so cool!
From other people's beta it seems there are 3 fifth class sections, but I could see how you would say only one, as they are all very easy. The first section of 5th class is right after the initial notch (down and left) and consists of a fairly low angle crack in a corner that is very secure (Some might call this 4th, felt low/mid fifth to me though). The "crux" is a short lieback crack, and it's no more than 5.5. There are numerous positive knobs on the face, which makes the lieback moves pretty easy. Just after the lieback there is an offwidth to the right that is described as 5.7 in the Secor book. I usually take the Dolphine at JTree as a benchmark for 5.7 OW and this was nowhere near as difficult as that. I think it was more like 5.3, as it was short, there were numerous features, and you could reach deep to get a solid handjam. Also, there are lots of variations possible, so it may be possible to make this climb harder or easier. There were definitely ways to avoid the offwidth.
On the descent make sure you pick the right gully. I picked the wrong one (I believe I descended too soon) and it started out as scree hell and then cliffed out. I spent a bunch of time figuring out a way to downclimb the cliffouts past other people's rap anchors since I didn't have a rope. The whole time storm clouds were building which made for an exciting end to the day! Supposedly if you go the right way it's just class 2 scree (no cliffs) the whole way down.
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fresno, CA
Aug 24, 2011
This route is presented by Croft as something to do when "the altitude is bugging you or you're too tired or hung over..." I completely disagree. We stayed almost entirely on the crest and there were many sections of 5th class climbing. The descent is also not straightforward. We met another party on their way out who had to bivy at 2AM due to problems finding the descent. This route is a big day, even if you short-cut around some of the towers.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Jul 31, 2012
21 hours on the move. This is a complex ridge, and much of the fun and adventure is not being able to see what's around the next corner and not really knowing where the hell you are. The going is reasonably easy if you're smart about your route choices. You can pretty easily keep it interesting and under 5.6 for pretty much the entire route if you're careful. Still, there's plenty of trip reports out there from people with experience who ended up having an epic on this ridge. YMMV.
I have posted a trip report with some decent info on finding the correct descent here, though you should definitely accept that there is no beta out there for this route that will serve you as well as (or substitute for) good judgement.
|By mark felber|
From: Frisco, CO,USA
May 3, 2013
I followed cairns and a faint user trail down to the SW gully from the true summit, no route finding issues. If you start straight down after finishing the 5th class stuff then things might be different.