Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lone Pine Peak
Select Route:
Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route 
Direct South Face 
Michael Strassman Memorial Route 
Milktoast Chimney 
Mountain Devil Dike 
NE Ridge (full) 
North Ridge 
Winter Route 

North Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Ray Van Aken & Art Lembeck, 1952
Page Views: 11,369
Submitted By: M.Morley on May 25, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so hopefully others will add details...

Mostly 4th class climbing with a couple sections of up to 5.4. A fun, easy, and accessible peak for the aspiring alpinist.

Descend to the SW down loose talus.


Location 

From Whitney Portal (7,900'), follow the Meysan Lakes drainage (marked trail) SSW towards Little/Lower Meysan Lake (~10,000'). Lone Pine Peak will be visible to the SE.


Protection 

Alpine rack.



Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
the notch
the notch
North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak
North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak
Caroline Schaumann after the short approach to Lone Pine Peak
Caroline Schaumann after the short approach to Lon...
start/end of approach ramp noted
BETA PHOTO: start/end of approach ramp noted
looking back down toward the owens valley
BETA PHOTO: looking back down toward the owens valley
Caroline Schaumann on the North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak
Caroline Schaumann on the North Ridge, Lone Pine P...
the long ridgeline
the long ridgeline
Gearing up for a winter ascent of the complete NRLPP
Gearing up for a winter ascent of the complete NRL...
early season ice
early season ice
first thought-provoking crack
first thought-provoking crack
the great leaning flake
BETA PHOTO: the great leaning flake
looking down the alternate approach
looking down the alternate approach
fixed pins mark the start of the crux
BETA PHOTO: fixed pins mark the start of the crux
last blocks before the summit
last blocks before the summit
rest of the crux section
BETA PHOTO: rest of the crux section
Keeler Needles & Whitney peeping over the right-hand skyline
Keeler Needles & Whitney peeping over the right-ha...
meysan lakes
meysan lakes
the first major obstacle
BETA PHOTO: the first major obstacle
n ridge & the owens valley
n ridge & the owens valley
alternate, more technical approach to gain the ridge
alternate, more technical approach to gain the rid...
final slabs to the summit
final slabs to the summit
Looking north up the eastern edge of the Sierras and the Owens River Valley from the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.
Looking north up the eastern edge of the Sierras a...
Lisa Pritchett and Dave Burda getting an early start on the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.
Lisa Pritchett and Dave Burda getting an early sta...
crossing the slabs
crossing the slabs
Winter ascent of the complete NRLPP
Winter ascent of the complete NRLPP
the leaning boulders in early season
the leaning boulders in early season
the many towers that make up the n ridge
BETA PHOTO: the many towers that make up the n ridge
final summit push
final summit push
Miguel starting up the ridge
Miguel starting up the ridge
Miguel reminiscing on the traverse
Miguel reminiscing on the traverse
about to get to the good part
about to get to the good part
slabs on the alternate approach to the ridge
slabs on the alternate approach to the ridge
Mike pulling a short grunty move
Mike pulling a short grunty move
view to the west
view to the west
The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak looming above a beautiful grove of Foxtail Pines.
The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak looming above a ...
Mike heading for the ridgeline proper
Mike heading for the ridgeline proper
final push
final push
many towers left to go
many towers left to go
descent to Meysan Lakes
descent to Meysan Lakes
chossy downclimb into the notch
chossy downclimb into the notch
The North Ridge follows the obvious right skyline of Lone Pine Peak. The ridge line dropping to the left and then towards the camera is the North East Ridge which is also supposedly quite good but requires a lot more hiking and thus a significantly longer day.
The North Ridge follows the obvious right skyline ...
looking down to the Owens Valley
looking down to the Owens Valley
easier ground before the summit
easier ground before the summit
more easy climbing
more easy climbing
Mike investigating a harder variation
Mike investigating a harder variation
notch before the summit tower
notch before the summit tower
one of the downclimbs
one of the downclimbs
traverse into the notch
traverse into the notch
looking down from the final summit tower
looking down from the final summit tower
on the second tower
on the second tower
almost to the top
almost to the top
fun crack climbing
fun crack climbing
The North Ridge provides an awesome backdrop to Joe climbing on the summit headwall of Lone Pine Peak
The North Ridge provides an awesome backdrop to Jo...
Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
May 21, 2009

It doesn't seem necessary to add to the vast route beta available in guide books but I will say that there is no more than 1 pitch of 5th class that starts out of a large notch 2/3 up the route. The crux is a brief two or three move layback corner before the climbing eases off to 3rd-4th class. The scenery is stunning.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Did this route today. Very fun climb, although it's mostly class 3/4. I love ridge climbs, the location you are in when climbing them is just so cool!

From other people's beta it seems there are 3 fifth class sections, but I could see how you would say only one, as they are all very easy. The first section of 5th class is right after the initial notch (down and left) and consists of a fairly low angle crack in a corner that is very secure (Some might call this 4th, felt low/mid fifth to me though). The "crux" is a short lieback crack, and it's no more than 5.5. There are numerous positive knobs on the face, which makes the lieback moves pretty easy. Just after the lieback there is an offwidth to the right that is described as 5.7 in the Secor book. I usually take the Dolphine at JTree as a benchmark for 5.7 OW and this was nowhere near as difficult as that. I think it was more like 5.3, as it was short, there were numerous features, and you could reach deep to get a solid handjam. Also, there are lots of variations possible, so it may be possible to make this climb harder or easier. There were definitely ways to avoid the offwidth.

On the descent make sure you pick the right gully. I picked the wrong one (I believe I descended too soon) and it started out as scree hell and then cliffed out. I spent a bunch of time figuring out a way to downclimb the cliffouts past other people's rap anchors since I didn't have a rope. The whole time storm clouds were building which made for an exciting end to the day! Supposedly if you go the right way it's just class 2 scree (no cliffs) the whole way down.

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 24, 2011

This route is presented by Croft as something to do when "the altitude is bugging you or you're too tired or hung over..." I completely disagree. We stayed almost entirely on the crest and there were many sections of 5th class climbing. The descent is also not straightforward. We met another party on their way out who had to bivy at 2AM due to problems finding the descent. This route is a big day, even if you short-cut around some of the towers.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

21 hours on the move. This is a complex ridge, and much of the fun and adventure is not being able to see what's around the next corner and not really knowing where the hell you are. The going is reasonably easy if you're smart about your route choices. You can pretty easily keep it interesting and under 5.6 for pretty much the entire route if you're careful. Still, there's plenty of trip reports out there from people with experience who ended up having an epic on this ridge. YMMV.

I have posted a trip report with some decent info on finding the correct descent here, though you should definitely accept that there is no beta out there for this route that will serve you as well as (or substitute for) good judgement.

By mark felber
From: Frisco, CO,USA
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I followed cairns and a faint user trail down to the SW gully from the true summit, no route finding issues. If you start straight down after finishing the 5th class stuff then things might be different.

By Anouk Erni
Oct 11, 2013

We read up on the beta so we wouldn't have route finding issues, and it worked. Started on the trail at 6am. We did the common start traversing from the trail at about 8600 ft and climbing the loose rock to gain the ridge at 8:45am. Mostly 3rd and 4th class (like others have said, you can make it easy or hard pretty much the entire ridge). We stuck to the east of the ridge at the 3rd tower to avoid a rappel or crazy down climb. When we got to the headwall we had a difficult time finding the start of the climb. There's a really exposed area to the west of the ridge and so we stuck to the east side, and started climb very close to the notch itself. It was probably a 5.9 move at the start - definitely not on route! But as soon as we got past that move it all became easy 5th to the summit. Last half pitch before the summit is super fun, winding up past boulders and blocks. Got to the summit at 4pm. It was crazy windy so we signed the register and got the hell off the mountain. Going down the loose talus/moraine sucked and probably was the worst I've experienced to date. It started snowing on us as soon as we got back on the trail. Got down to the car at 8pm. 14 hour day, not too bad considering it was my first day ascent of a sierra peak.