Alpine peak just north of Mt. Conness with several great alpine ice couloirs.
Drive west on Hwy. 120 from Lee Vining. Turn right at the Saddlebag Lake/Sawmill Campground turnoff well before the Tuolumne Meadows entrance station. Drive to the end of the road and park as for routes on Mt. Conness at the Saddlebag Lake trailhead.
Amazing alpine ice route with a relatively short approach. Generally steep snow and 50-55 degree ice for 6 continuous pitches. Generally stay on the right side of the couloir (though both sides can be climbed) because the slope of the chute funnels rock and ice to the left side. I have seen this climb in various conditions from steep neve mixed with ice to bullet-proof steep blue ice from top to bottom. I have never seen it as a snow couloir as is shown in S.P. Parker's guidebook.The North C...[more]Browse More Classics in CA