Type: Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,910 total · 10/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on May 31, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This excellent traverse is found on the north face of the same outcropping that forms the south face of the Amphitheater. Approach as for Mongolian Cosmonaut, but go up a little higher and northeast. A beautiful, scooped, overhanging wall with a flat boulder at its base is below. Sadly some jerks with spray paint have defaced this wall, but the climbing is still good.

Start at an obvious chalked jug and traverse right past some OK edges to a good sidepull. The initial steep section is the crux with poor feet and little room for error thanks to the boulder directly behind you. The remainder of the climb is much easier but fun and a worthy V1 in its own right. A good shady option for warmer days.

Per Ryan DeCrescent: this is a really great, harder traverse on the backside of the Amphitheatre, hidden in the shade. Start on the far left, sitting on a rock, with each hand on very small crimps. A left heel around the left corner is helpful for the first move. Start your motion up and right to a large flake/jug. From here, it gets rough (the crux for sure), requiring a big reach out right to some crimps, some tenuous, and very core-intensive footwork (to make it harder, a boulder is scraping at your bum during the crux section and requires you to pull into the rock even more that you'd like). After a few hard moves, you'll find yourself back in a comfort zone with friendlier (but maybe weirder) holds. Push through some incredibly painful moves, and top out up and right over a large bulge. I have found a heel hook and a soon-to-follow toe hook to be essential and helpful beta around the crux section.

Beta video: https://youtu.be/RdExPKcRRQw.

Happy climbing!

Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions for the same problem onto the 1st submission's page.

Location Suggest change

This lies NE of Mongolian Cosmonaut.

Protection Suggest change

A couple of pads to line the boulder behind the crux.

Photos

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