Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'
Page Views: 1,725 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 13, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1. Start below the wide black streak, pull up onto some broken terrain in an open book of sorts, locate a fixed pin and climb up to the bolt. From the 1st bolt make a weird mantel and cruise up to the bolt line staying to the left. A few cam placements augment the space in between the bolts. A hard move onto a a stance brings you the last roof, which can be climbed on it's left or right side but left is slightly easier. 

As soon as you get over this, start trending RIGHT towards a pin (which is under a small, right-trending overlap) and then to a great, 2-bolt belay at the bottom of a huge, right facing dihedral and slab. 

Steep and kind of intimidating but with awesome feet and rests between most of the moves. 5.9

P2. From the belay traverse out right towards the arête clipping a fixed pin. From the fixed pin climb up with a couple of hands/big hands sized (# 2 and 3 camalot) placements. Make an airy traverse over the lip of the roof on good feet to clip the 1st bolt. Slab your way up a highly featured slab to a big ledge and belay. There is a newer belay with 2 half inch bolts but no chains. (Be sure to look over to your left and down a little to spot your rap anchor.)  5.8+

P3. The new belay puts you directly below a black streak with cool features. Place a piece on your right and then rock onto the slab then pad your way to the first bolt and then towards a huge flake and corner system that eats up gear. Pull up and over the steep-ish corner and climb slightly left to find another fixed pin and mantle to the belay. 5.8

It is possible to continue up to the last pitch of 6 Ways from Sunday for one more pitch. 5.11-

Location Suggest change

Start below the obvious ?black streak? to the right of The 7th Way start.
(see
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )
Rap the route

Protection Suggest change

(1) #3 camalot, (1) .75 camalot and a set of TCU’s should suffice. QD’s and a few shoulder slings. 70M rope

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Photos

Kimmy headed up the final pitch.
Kimmy headed up the final pitch.
 2
Looking back to the top of Pitch 1
Looking back to the top of Pitch 1
 2
Starting Pitch 3
Starting Pitch 3
 2
Hard to beat those views.
Hard to beat those views.
 1
David high on Pitch 3.
David high on Pitch 3.
 0
Looking up at David A leading Pitch 2. It's steeper than it looks. After the last bolt head far left on easy climbing to anchors.
Looking up at David A leading Pitch 2. It's ste…
 0
David A starting up Pitch 2. Bomber #3 placement is about 5 ft higher.
David A starting up Pitch 2. Bomber #3 placemen…
 0
Looking up at David A leading Pitch 1. After this (last) bolt go pretty far right to the anchors.
Looking up at David A leading Pitch 1. After th…
 0

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