This is the roadside crag which nearly abuts the road on the N side of CO Hwy 7. There are a few glinting bolts which attract the climber's eye to wonder what's there if you haven't perused either Rolofson's 1995 or Hubbel's 1999 guides. This is the narrowest bit of the South St. Vrain canyon. Nice slab of granite in stretches here. Routes include Alley Cat Street, White Line Fever, Cling to Safety, Climb to Safety, Flash Flood, Death Tongue variation, Death Tongue, Crack, Narrows Crack, and The Hitcher.
Parking is best obtained just downhill in front of Observatory Rock or just uphill from the crag.
Find this rock approximately 5.3 miles up CO Hwy 7 from the intersection of CO Hwy 7 & US 36 in Lyons. Drive W, uphill and when you park or stop, the rock rises nearly from the road.
A. Alley Cat Street, 5.9+ (some say 5.10a) (left-most bolt line up black water streak; bolts just got replaced) (note: with the exception of one route, none of the bolted lines are sport climbs; bring a bit of gear) B. Gas Huffer 5.10a (starts with 3 diagonal bolts from block, then gear, not in Hubbel guide) C. White Line Fever, 5.9- R (gear, run out) D. Cling to Safety, 5.11b (first bolt route right of trees; wires for the bottom, then 4 bolts) E. Climb to Safety, 5.9 (gear to two bolts and anchor) F. Flash Flood 5.12a (thin slab with 4 bolts, a little gear at top) G1. Death Tongue 5.12b (has been listed in guides as 5.11d/12a; I think the start is quite difficult) (mixed gear and bolts to big flake in large roof -- the Death Tongue) G2. Death Tongue Var., 5.9+ (gear; start right, cross DT, and angle left with big flake) H. Narrows Crack, 5.11a (listed as 5.10d in older guides) (gear to obvious jam crack through roof to tree rappel station -- run out and junky in first half) I. The Hitcher, 5.12b (the only sport route on the wall, follows bolted arete -- the 4th bolt has a quick link on it. Cruxes low and at the quicklink. 5 bolts to anchor) Hanging Bridge 5.10b (height-dependent crux) (newer route on right side of wall, gear to two bolts, more gear -- not a good route for short people unless you add a bolt below the 2 that are there; that would better protect the 5.11a LB section that tall people can avoid with a stem. I put the route in and don't mind if short climbers want to add a bolt)
This route climbs up a thin corner, up a slab into the obvious dihedral and follows it to the chains above.The first bolt is a little high, so a small wire is very nice for a backup. Very crimpy moves pull out to the slab, smear and edge up to the dihedral, and enjoy fun laybacks and jams to the top.If you are not up for the hard start, come in from the corner of Narrows Crack. Climb up a few moves, place a green Alien, and traverse left to the small ledge below the dihedral. Place a #3 Ca...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Kevin Cooper, I and various partners put up three new ice routes on this crag this last weekend 12/1/2006. Perhaps they have been done before. If not they are now called "Skidmark Left, Skidmark Right and Road Rash". All three climb 1-2" thick ice and use existing bolts and natural protection except for Road Rash which required the addition of one bolt above a loose flake. They form most years for a few days. Skidmark Left is the black water streak of Alley Cat Street and uses this routes protection. Skidmark Right is just right of Alley Cat and uses mostly natural pro with a long reach right for a bolt 30ft? up. Road Rash starts left of a left facing corner (100ft? right of the other routes) and starts out steep up and slightly right to some sketchy flakes that must be stood on to reach the new bolt before commiting to a slab that takes you to a small overlap which leads up a left leaning/facing corner. All three routes are WI5+M6 or thereabouts and 80-100ft in length. Enjoy!
Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two bolt anchor shared by Climb to Safety, Death Tongue, Flash Flood and Cling to Safety with 3/8" stainless steel Rawl bolts. We added quick links and chains for rappel. The bolts, hangers and quick links were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.