North Glacier Route
||Alpine, Grade II
|Original: ||Mod. Snow [details]|
|FA: ||R.G Cairns, A.A McCoubrey, R. Neave 1933|
|Season: ||year round, spring is best|
|Page Views: ||385|
|Submitted By: ||Taylor-B. on Dec 5, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Mount Hector from the toe of the glacier.
The crux of this route may be the approach to the glacier. This area is very avi prone. Once at the toe of the glacier rope up and ascend up the low angle glacier. A short ice/snow headwall 40 degrees is encountered befor reaching a Col. From the Col scramble 3rd class rock for a few hundred feet to the summit. Rip the skins for a great ski run or slog it back to the road, 4-8hrs roundtrip.
Park at Hector Creek on the Ice Fields Parkway, 17km north of the Trans Canadian HWY. You cant see the north Glacier from the road. Follow the creek through the woods up into the big avi prone bowl to the toe of the glacier.
Glacier kit, crampons, ice axe.
Man the summit looks close, but notice the black s...
Major avalanche gully on the way in to Mount Hecto...
Heading out onto the glacier, with the summit in f...
Avalanche gully, get through this area early
And the views on the skin up sure aren't bad.