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 ADVANCED
Mount Hector
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North Glacier Route 

North Glacier Route 

Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: R.G Cairns, A.A McCoubrey, R. Neave 1933
Season: year round, spring is best
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Dec 5, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Mount Hector from the toe of the glacier.

Description 

The crux of this route may be the approach to the glacier. This area is very avi prone. Once at the toe of the glacier rope up and ascend up the low angle glacier. A short ice/snow headwall 40 degrees is encountered befor reaching a Col. From the Col scramble 3rd class rock for a few hundred feet to the summit. Rip the skins for a great ski run or slog it back to the road, 4-8hrs roundtrip.


Location 

Park at Hector Creek on the Ice Fields Parkway, 17km north of the Trans Canadian HWY. You cant see the north Glacier from the road. Follow the creek through the woods up into the big avi prone bowl to the toe of the glacier.


Protection 

Glacier kit, crampons, ice axe.



Photos of North Glacier Route Slideshow Add Photo
shredding eh!
shredding eh!
Man the summit looks close, but notice the black speck (i.e. climber) in the middle for perspective.
Man the summit looks close, but notice the black s...
Major avalanche gully on the way in to Mount Hector.  This is right where the trees end, there is also a waterfall ice climb on the right.
Major avalanche gully on the way in to Mount Hecto...
Heading out onto the glacier, with the summit in full view on the top right.  The snow bridges were huge and only a few crevasses were apparent on the right.
Heading out onto the glacier, with the summit in f...
Avalanche gully, get through this area early
Avalanche gully, get through this area early
And the views on the skin up sure aren't bad.
And the views on the skin up sure aren't bad.
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