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Oak Creek Spire
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"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 
North Face/West Crack T 
Poquito Bandito T,S 

North Face/West Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Sue Patenaude, May 1979
Season: Fall and Spring are best
Page Views: 6,721
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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The second pitch of Oak Creek Spire in Sedona. Ph...

Description 

Oak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!

For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).

P1) Climb initial corner crack, then either go straight up, or out onto the face and climb to a steep exit slot and a pair of belay bolts. Move the belay from here up to a ledge just below the next pitch crack.

P2) Climb the tight-hands crack to gain the flared chimney above. If you have big hands, this may feel like 10-. Once in the flare, climb to the big blocky chimney above. You can belay here if you want to break it up a bit, or just continue up the blocky chimney the top of the lower OCS tower. This lead is about 185 feet if you go all the way.

P3) Locate the proper jump, down on a lower ledge across from the other tower. Get some slack and make the leap of faith. Not a good idea to fall. Then climb left, then up, then back right and up a last crack to a (visible from the jump spot)bolted anchor on the wall. The actual summit is another ten feet higher and includes a mailbox. Belay up to and down from here accordingly.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot, two ropes, HELMET!!

Descent 

Rap from the chains down to the lower (northern) summit. Then go find an anchor overlooking the north face (above pitches 2 & 3) and rappel down to the ledges above the first pitch. From there, one more rap from the anchor atop pitch 1 will get you back down.

Note: Not sure if you have to have two ropes to do that rappel from the north summit down to the ledges. Maybe someone can clarify for sure.


Photos of North Face/West Crack Slideshow Add Photo
this is what we came for! <br />
this is what we came for!
Sav cruising the chimney section on P2, crux is below just out of frame.
Sav cruising the chimney section on P2, crux is be...

Comments on North Face/West Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2013
By James Fisher
From: Sedona, AZ
Mar 5, 2006

For the descent, you can rappel off summit and across the jump across. From here, you can go to the north face, overlooking p2 and p3. A double rope rap will get you to the base of p2 and one more rap to the ground. Much cleaner rap than old descent.
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 10, 2006

A couple of items about Oak Creek Spire.

1. The first pitch is insecure and scary at 5.8+. The climbing isn't that hard, but it is strange and insecure at times.
2. The rap anchor spoken of above is hidden very well. Look for two white/grey painted hangers that are facing almost directly north. As you top out the third pitch the rap anchor is down and around to the left.
3. This route is awesome because it throws a little bit of everything at you. The second pitch is great because it starts thin hands/hands then progresses to a sweet chimney.
By misterclimberman
Oct 8, 2006

my $.02. my best beta for the route (gear wise) is to take a number 5 camalot. if taken, it is used and every pitch and is great to have. it is also a great way to protect the akward 5.8+ first pitch, which i have personally seen spit of a solid 5.12 climber.
By Seth Dyer
Oct 16, 2006

Jeremy Schlick and I added the new rap anchors sometime back in 2001 or 2002. We didn't try to hide them, rather we tried to place them inconspicuously. But they do make things immensely easier as far as getting off the tower is concerned. Right back down to your packs if I remember correctly....
By Dean Hoffman
Feb 14, 2007

Fantastic tower and home of two of my most favorite epics. Once with Willie C. when we had to bail after I lost my breakfast while leading the 2nd pitch, and once with Felix and Adi Amar when we were benighted and experienced the adventure that is trying to find rap anchors in the pitch black. It was only 11 when we got back to the packs and Adi's grandparents didn't complain too much when they came home to find us raiding their fridge before we went back to Flag, sweet route and good climbing. Glad to know about the new anchors, thanks Seth.
By rpc
Feb 20, 2007

Good route on a great-looking spire. Found the crux opening moves of P2 to be very hard (maybe smaller hands than mine make things smoother here?). Found the new rap bolts - quick and painless descent right down to the packs (thank you!). Left a fixed line to help us get back down & across the chasm - seems like it would be a little tricky to rap across w/o one. Double 70 meter rope will not get you to the ground from these new bolts (not that there's a need for that). Thanks to Greg for the approach map.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 19, 2007

Do both the leader and follower need to do the jump across? I am interested in doing the route with my wife, but she's not into jumps. Would jugging the pitch be possible?
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 20, 2007

I'm picturing Wile E. Coyote here. I wouldn't reccomend jugging the last pitch. A better option would be to top out alone and collect your gear while rapping down, although it would be a shame not to be able to share the summit with your wife. The new rap has a station on the lower summit, so you're not committed to the jump. Maybe once she's there she can summon the courage.

PS. With some aid climging tricks it should be possable to jug the pitch (self lower off a slung boulder..)
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 18, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I remember doing this route several years ago and getting sketched at the jump across on the last pitch. So I got a running start and jumped too far, smashing hard into the rock wall. It's a wonder that I held on. It definitely looks farther & harder than it really is.
By ElyseSokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Nov 18, 2007

So if I can do a 4+ foot standing broad jump should I be able to make it?
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Dec 6, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think so, but it's been a while, so I reserve the right to be wrong. HTH.
By mcarizona
From: Flag
Nov 1, 2009

Some saint left a webbing and double biner belay at the top of the squeeze chimney (2nd pitch after the broken section) Bring another 20 footer if you want to back it up. Also using the bolts for the rappel is a much faster descent than in the past. Thanks!
Steve
By erik kapec
From: prescott, az
Mar 4, 2010

awesome climb, got spit off the top of the first pitch twice. third times the charm! had to bail cause most of the party could not make progress on the wierd hand crack on p2. Made it to the top of the runout flaring chimney (didnt have any gear biger than 4BD). There are two awesome looking crack once you finish the top of the flaring chimney. One on the right and one on the left. which crack takes you to the top of the lower tower? they both look so nice and pure....P.S. bailed from right above the chimney...if the webbing was green and one of the biners had black tape, and one with green/bue tape that was us. Im glad to hear noone bootied the gear! oh and if you are going to bail from the top of the chimney, watch out for the trees and prickly pear at the base when tossing the ropes. was kind of a pain to deal with.
By Scrivm
Mar 27, 2012

A #5 BD is nice if you aren't a solid chimney climber. Green webbing has a hole the size of a finger on the back... Should probably have cut it, beware.
By Danny G.
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great adventure! The gap is just under 6 feet according to my wingspan measurement while on rap (now you can practice in the comfort of your living room)! After climbing this clean twice I think the 2nd pitch really is 10+. I have medium size hands and have done a bit of sandstone climbing but maybe I'm just missing something. Don't let this deter you, it's possible to yard through it on gear if needed and the route is rewarding. Also - heed the rap beta and don't rap into the bowling alley as we did on our first trip!
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Aug 12, 2012

Hello. Yesterday (Aug 10th) we climbed Oak Creek Spire. We misplaced and left about 10 cams on one of the ledges while descending......(oops!) If you find our gear and return it to us, we will send you a $100 reward. Thank you. You will have good karma too.
Todd Gordon and Tucker Tech.
Joshua Tree, Ca. (760) 366-9395
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Sep 14, 2012

A kind girl from Flagg found our gear and is returning it to us. We are happy;...climbers are kind...thank you!
By Alex Wood
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The cows along the Jacks Canyon Trail make this a PG-13 affair. Also, bring the #5, especially for the 2nd pitch.
By Ryan Z
Jan 22, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb was quite the adventure. I didn't think it had much loose rock. It all seemed pretty solid to me. P1 was a really fun short pitch with an airy move out of a crack. P2 had some "character" moves right off the ground then a prime chimney. A #5 is a good idea. The jump was incredible! really cool. I'm kind of a short fellow and it's not a far jump. If you can climb the 2nd pitch you can definitely do the jump. Don't let that one move lead you away from a grand experience!
By Andrew Belus
From: Denver, CO
Feb 2, 2013

does anyone know if its possible to get away with a 4.5?
By Grizzly Adams
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 9, 2013

After doing this route I think it is unnecessary to drag up two ropes. If I were to do this again I would leave my second rope at the top of P1 as 1 60m will get you from the top of the first spire back down to the top of P1 on a single strand rap. You can then tie on and pull up the second cord left on top of P1 and the second can then rap off both.
By Neil Kauffman
May 22, 2013

As of 5/21/13 the 1 inch webbing rappel anchor at the top of the squeeze chimney on pitch 2 was in good shape. It slings a large diameter block and features a fat steel quick link. Bring a long piece (15-20ft) of webbing if you wanna back it up. Using this allowed us to RAP WITH A SINGLE ROPE. We had a 70M but a 60M should be sufficient. A bolted station here would be nice, as the other retro anchors seem to be well received.
A slim but sufficient rack...(Camalots)
1 each .3-.75 and #5
2 each #1,#2,#3


please edit the initial page to reflect rap and gear beta