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The Plunger
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Masters of the Mid 
North Face 
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North Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Late May - Aug
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


A short two-pitch route up the awesome Plunger pinnacle. Climb moderate snow and cross a bergschrund to access the base of the rock. Many possible starts are available, I will describe the obvious one we took.

P1) 5.6-5.7, ~80'. Up a low-angle left-facing dihedral to a belay in a notch from boulders with fixed rappel slings.

P2) 5.10a, 50'. Scramble over boulders and down slightly, traversing around to the left (north)side of the summit block on a small foot-ledge. Climb up a handcrack on a near-vertical wall to the summit. Belay from gear at the summit, or downclimb 10' of easy 5th class on the south side of the summit to the sling/rappel anchor. This pitch could also be easily aided/French-freed at C1.


An obvious left-facing dihedral on the west face of the Plunger marks the first pitch. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed rappel slings.


Standard rack to 3".

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