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|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
A short two-pitch route up the awesome Plunger pinnacle. Climb moderate snow and cross a bergschrund to access the base of the rock. Many possible starts are available, I will describe the obvious one we took.
P1) 5.6-5.7, ~80'. Up a low-angle left-facing dihedral to a belay in a notch from boulders with fixed rappel slings.
P2) 5.10a, 50'. Scramble over boulders and down slightly, traversing around to the left (north)side of the summit block on a small foot-ledge. Climb up a handcrack on a near-vertical wall to the summit. Belay from gear at the summit, or downclimb 10' of easy 5th class on the south side of the summit to the sling/rappel anchor. This pitch could also be easily aided/French-freed at C1.
An obvious left-facing dihedral on the west face of the Plunger marks the first pitch. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed rappel slings.
Standard rack to 3".